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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey gang I need help. I bought new brake pads for the Massey 1655 and both show as the same part on the parts diagram so I ordered two of them. I got them today and pulled the old brake pads out and put the new one in the back which is about a 1/4" thicker then the old one. Problem is now the rotor doesn't go on far enough to allow the caliper with the new brake pad to go on. It is about an 1/8" too much. I don't know if you are supposed to grind one of the new pads to make it work or what. The old pad that was in the caliper was barely worn according to the size of the new ones. The one on the inside is about an 1/8" thick and the new ones are about a 1/2" thick.
 

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Accumulator
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That is something I never had to replace on my old 1655,but I do have to replace the pads on the 1655 that I have now,so I will be interested to know the story here as well.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Never replaced them either. In fact, not sure if any of mine still have any pads. Never seen much need for them as the hydro stops them just fine. I guess maybe I could use them as a park brake, but never really needed them for that either. Wish I could be more help George.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ya I wasn't too worried about it either other then the fact that if I don't park it on perfectly flat ground it will roll away and doesn't sound fun when trying to load it on a trailer by myself.
 

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Hi George I'am not sure what your asking but I'll see if this will help.Is the disc floating on the shaft that sticks out of the trans. The other thing is there's that bolt that sticks out of the caliper that you need to turn out to allow the outer pad to beable to fall back deep enough into the caliper.You might have to pull take that apart and clean all the old grease and gunk out of there as it might not be releasing enough to have room for the new pads. I know I had to take mine apart and clean it all up then put a light coat of grease on during installation.I didn't have to grind anything off the new pads I put on.I did have to change the disc on mine as well as it was warped so you couldn't adjust the brakes too good.The only time I've ever had to use the brakes is parking and when transporting as when the tractor is running the hydro does the braking. Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ya it is hard to explain. The caliper part is fine, I have that all cleaned up and adjusted so the pad seats all the way along with the backing plate. The problem for mine I believe is the pad that sets in the axle housing. The old pad that I took out was only an 1/8" thick, the new pad is a 1/2" thick which would explain why there were no brakes. The rotor on mine is in great shape and it does float on the shaft. With the pad on the inside and the rotor on I would have to put a 1/4" worth of shims or washers behind the caliper to be able to mount it. I will try and see if I can't get any pictures but I think it will be hard to get a camera in there to show what the problem is. I am pretty sure that the back pad in the axle housing is fully seated. I am going to work on it some more tonight. If I can't get it together tonight I am just going to put the old pads back in and put the sheet metal back on because it needs to go to storage for the time being till something works out with a house. I was just hoping it was going to be a simple fix and it turned out to be a little more then that.

Were both of your new brake pads the same size?
 

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Yeah my brake pads were both the same size!!! However I didn't and wasn't able to get from Massey soooo I took one of the old ones to one of the local snowmobile dealer and matched something up same dia. but I had to cut the flat spot into the new brake pucks.They worked for me and that was 10 years ago soooo I no doubt ended up with a bit less thickness pucks then what you got.Hears my question to you could you not say maybe cut 1/8" of a sliver off each puck giving you the 1/4" that you require.If you have a Router,hacksaw,angle grider or something like that slice off what you need too.[Saftey first use protection against the dust etc:] The indent in the trans housing isn't that deep thats for sure. I'am sure you'll figure it out [I wouldn't add a shim to build out the caliper it would be better to thin the pucks] Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ya I think I am going to have to thin the pucks or at least the rear one because the front one in the caliper isn't much thicker then what was in there. Maybe I will thin the old one that was in the caliper and see how that works and then I will have a new spare to keep around.
 

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Probably best to do that.As for having a spare I doubt that you'll ever wear them down so long as the disc is straigth and not warped like what my old one was,I'am sure they'll last many years.Like said earlier did mine 10 yrs ago and probably still like the day they were done.Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I got it ground down, it is only maybe an 1/8" bigger then the old one. It took a while and I did a lot of trial and error but it works. I can't see ever using the brake other then for a parking brake.

Now I just gotta figure out the adjustment for the speed control lever. I either need a longer bolt to be able to set the parking brake where the adjustment bolt touches the brake arm. The other thing I noticed driving it around the yard is the speed selector makes no difference in speed no matter what setting it is on. It also doesn't seem to have much top speed to it either. I can't really mess with it anymore right now as it needs to go into storage until we move. I am hauling it to storage either tomorrow night or this weekend but it would be cool to get some general ideas. I am going to do some reading up on the manual for it as well.
 

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Before I say anymore about the speed selector does your tractor self netural when you take your foot off the foot control pedal.If it does then it shouldn't be to bad to figure out why it won't make a diff in speed ranges If all the linkages move like there supposed to on the left side [sitting on the tractor] then it shouldn't be to bad to figure it out. The right side has only one linkage that comes from the foot control to the hydro. The left side has another linkage comming off the hydro as well.It's for the neutral setting as well as the speed selector so thats why I wanted to know if that linkage moves as soon as the one on the right side. If it doesn't then its a internal split pin that has sheared inside that was what had happened to mine when I first bougth it. If everything moves together then it'll be a fairly simple fix {I hope} .Larry
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It self neutrals when you let off the foot pedal. I know the selector linkage needs the bolt replaced to engage the parking brake. What is funny is I read through the service manual and in there it has the back brake pad is supposed to be 1/4" and the front one in the caliper is a 1/2" LOL. I guess I should have read the manual sooner. I don't understand why they are the same part number though on agcopartsbook. I guess maybe it is cheaper to only stock one size pad and let the end user make it the right size, just be nice if they let ya know that.

I remember when I had the panels off the tractor if you moved the speed selector there is a c shaped piece on the right that moved also. I am not so worried about being able to adjust the speed as I am to make sure I am getting full speed. My massey 12g would run circles around this thing in top gear. Maybe it doesn't go that fast and I know it isn't a race LOL.
 

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Glad to hear you got your brake pads changed.
 

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i did brakes on both of mine 6 months ago. same thing as you. snapper part #'s are the same and MF have to different #'s. but i got lucky since i was doing both tractors i used a new pad and a old pad on each one. that job took me all day, my rotors was seized and at the end of the day so was my back. top speed on mine is too fast only good on the road going to the corner store. if any Q's on fuel pump, i put a electric fuel pump on mine with a electric fuel cut off selnoid .
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I am pretty sure the top speed on mine isn't where it is supposed to be. I still need to check the hydro oil level and I am questioning the oil filter that is on it. I know someone posted the wix filter # for them. I just gotta find it. I don't know if it is from the tractor sitting for quite some time but the hydro does groan a little when you first start moving and a little jerky on a quicker start. I am guessing the fluid needs flushed/changed. I just wish I had time to do it before we have to get all our stuff into storage but I don't think it is going to happen until we get situated in a new place.
 

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I don't use high range while doing any type of work in the yard,only when on the road,it's fast,I'll bet it'll move at about 15 + MPH way to fast for yard work.I know that when my young guy and I went on the road to plough in the neighbord field,I was on the GC2300 and he was on the 1655.He thought it was great that he could pass me and leave me behind in the dust,big smile and grin on his face,off course he had to rub it in,Ha my tractor's faster then your's,chuckle,chuckle. Once you have the time to get into fixing again,let us know and we'll surely beable to give you all the help on what needs to be done.Must be a P.I.T.A. to have to be packing up and moving,when wanting to get your tractor fixed up and working,bet you'd rather be doing that and getting some seat time.Larry.
 

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I have never checked the top MPH of my 1655,but it will almost fly,it's fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ya, going by what you guys are telling me something isn't right then with the drive on the tractor. The high - N - lo selector on the right side for the axle works. I was able to cruise around the yard in high gear and the speed selector on the highest spot and could see myself mowing at that speed. I am going to check the fluid tonight and maybe see about getting a filter for it. Anyone have a cross reference part number for the tranny filter handy?
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Your speed limiter is definitely out of whack, at least sounds like it, unless a severe hydro problem, & unlikely that's the prob. NO WAY to mow at full speed HI range!! Bumpy yard & you couldn't stay in the seat!
 
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