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Took off this morning on what should have been1hr 45 min trip that took a little over 2 1/4 hours. All kinds of road construction. Went after what the guy siad was a 1054. 1054 & Tiller.jpg . When I got there he was airing up the back tires and had a charger on the battery. I looked it over some and seen right away it was not a 1054 as it had hydraulic lift and was a hydro. He pulled the choke, pulled knob with a "T" in the center and turned the key. It fired right off and ran good, slow and fast. He had it running prior and broke the one drive belt when he tried to move it.

1256-1.JPG 1256-2.JPG

Loaded it up on the trailer, strapped it down and home I came. Back tire was flat so swapped it out. Checked the engine and it was a TRA 10D like he said it was. Checked the model number and found it was 1256 0 . That explained the hydro. Has a leak at the front of the hydro some place I will have to find.

Went to the tiller to see what I had there. The tiller is a Sears brand made in Canada Has to be 34 or 36" wide. It is mounted to a sleeve hitch and has 2 springs to let it float over uneven ground. Looks like factory extensions on both ends. The motor is a 5 hp B&S in Wards orange. PO said it originally had a 6 hp on it. The 5 seems to have good compression and was told it worked good in normal ground. Hard ground have to make several passes.

Tiller-1.JPG Tiller-2.JPG

Normal items one finds in a used tractor needs attention. All in all I think it was well worth the $400 and time on the road. Put it in the machine shed as I have a motor to put in a Cub 1811 and hydro to pull and replace in a Cub 1512 before I start another project.
 

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Not sure I like the idea of controls being far away like that. No clutch to release then either? You would have to get it running, put in gear, then get on tractor to go? Not to handy, and not sure so safe, but guess would work. I never understood why people try to mix brands of tractors and attachments, why not just put on the correct brand and should work as it was meant to be?? Let us know how it all works when you "test" it!
 

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Not sure I like the idea of controls being far away like that. No clutch to release then either? You would have to get it running, put in gear, then get on tractor to go? Not to handy, and not sure so safe, but guess would work. I never understood why people try to mix brands of tractors and attachments, why not just put on the correct brand and should work as it was meant to be?? Let us know how it all works when you "test" it!
The only control for the tiller is the throttle, which is a straight up pull and an easy reach from the seat. There is a ground wire that will go to a kill switch when I get it going so it can be reached from the tractor seat also, probably on the front of the engine. I don't really like the idea of a direct drive from engine to tiller either. But that is way a lot of the older walk behind styles were set up, then put a tensioner on the belt. That may be something to add later if I think I need it. Trying to find a Bolens tiller in this part of the country is like finding a needle in a hay stack. You guys from Wisconsin on East don't know how good you have it as not much Bolens stuff made it across the river West. If it did it went way west till it found water. The Bolens tiller did not do that good a job anyway. Turned to slow. My walk behind BCS does a much better job of seed bed preparation. Tractor tiller was good for the first few passes over disked ground from fall plowing.
 

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Tractor looks nice. Sears made their Roto Spaders the same for a walk behind & GT set up. The only difference was the GT set up was wider & they left the handles off. The round vertical sleeve in the back was where the wheels attached. Either way you got something good to work with. I had their walk behind years ago...made like a tank. Glad you had a safe & rewarding trip.
 
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Tractor looks nice. Sears made their Roto Spaders the same for a walk behind & GT set up. The only difference was the GT set up was wider & they left the handles off. The round vertical sleeve in the back was where the wheels attached. Either way you got something good to work with. I had their walk behind years ago...made like a tank. Glad you had a safe & rewarding trip.
I wondered about that cast round hole in the back of the main frame work. Makes sense that is where the wheel mount would go. Tractor is early 70's vintage. Wonder where that Roto Spader fits in?

Found some information on the tiller. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-universal-tow-mount-tiller/%C2 It looks to me like the tiller I have is backwards from what is shown on the Sears site. I haven't check to see which way the tines rotate on mine but looks like they run the opposite direction than what is shown. Two different machines possibly?
 
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The way it's set up is the tines are running forward because the walk behind wheel mount is at the rear. I would prefer it turned around if possible. Could you place the shifter in forward at a good gear range & remove the lever if you turned it around. It would then be turning backwards while pulled by your tractor. I always thought a tiller running backwards produces a better job. Your Sears version is pretty common. Search the Internet & I'm sure you'll find a few conversions done.

I have a JD tiller with a blown engine. I'm thinking of putting a 6.5hp HF Predator on there then adding another pair of tines to give me the width of the GT. I would also run it backwards.
 

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I wondered about that cast round hole in the back of the main frame work. Makes sense that is where the wheel mount would go. Tractor is early 70's vintage. Wonder where that Roto Spader fits in?

Found some information on the tiller. It looks to me like the tiller I have is backwards from what is shown on the Sears site. I haven't check to see which way the tines rotate on mine but looks like they run the opposite direction than what is shown. Two different machines possibly?
The Roto Spader I had was new around the early 70's. I got it used from my uncle. Mine never had the same gear box like yours. I'm thinking yours is probably late 60's.
 

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The PO siad that gear shifter had two forward and a reverse speed. My have to investigate that part of the set up.
 
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The way it's set up is the tines are running forward because the walk behind wheel mount is at the rear. I would prefer it turned around if possible. Could you place the shifter in forward at a good gear range & remove the lever if you turned it around. It would then be turning backwards while pulled by your tractor. I always thought a tiller running backwards produces a better job. Your Sears version is pretty common. Search the Internet & I'm sure you'll find a few conversions done.

I have a JD tiller with a blown engine. I'm thinking of putting a 6.5hp HF Predator on there then adding another pair of tines to give me the width of the GT. I would also run it backwards.
You know a lot more about this tiller than I do by far. I just gave the recoil a pull on the engine to make sure it was free and quit at that. A for the direction of rotation - I don't know. My BCS rear time has forward rotation and can control ground speed with 2 gears. Usually run in the low gear and it does a really nice job. I think the combination of tine speed and ground speed together at the right combination is what makes for a good seedbed.

From what I could find on the net, this tiller most likely came from the mid to late '60's. I also noted that several show a gauge wheel on the back to determine the depth of the tiller. Mine does not have that. I think it might be better controlled at the tiller than with the tractor.
 
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