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Premium Member
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1,227 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just recently did a head gasket on the 1476, and noticed the compression release wasnt working. But I had to finish the grass and continued to run it the way it was. I crossed my fingers hoping I could make it through winter and look at it in spring. We are expecting snow tomorrow and it wont start.

Is this a difficult fix? or can I somehow get this thing going easy?
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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32,409 Posts
As long as she starts easily, I'm not sure if I would worry about it. It is only to allow easier cranking over of the engine & it being out of order has NO effect on running the engine. If it's hard to crank, then you may want to repair it. I'm not familiar with that model, but likely requires a teardown to get at the camshaft, where the compression release resides.
 

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DR. Bolens
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19,074 Posts
:ditto:
As Daniel stated above,
The compression release has no affect on the running engine. Only purpose it serves is to help start it easier.
If you want to repair/see what is wrong you will basically have to tear down the engine to reach the cam
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yea, I know it dosnt hurt anything. But without it, its very hard to started in cold weather. Today I had a small electric heater in the shed for two hours just to warm it up. Finilly it started.
 

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DR. Bolens
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19,074 Posts
MH81 said:
You guys have mentioned synthetic oil for cold months, would that help here?
The big problem with the compression release not working is it takes alot of power to turn that engine along with Hydrostatic Tranny. Especially when everything is cold.
I've never run synthetic in my garden tractors....
 

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Bob's Lawn and Garden LLC
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2,183 Posts
Bolens 1000 said:
The big problem with the compression release not working is it takes alot of power to turn that engine along with Hydrostatic Tranny. Especially when everything is cold.
I've never run synthetic in my garden tractors....
:ditto:

But thanks to the guys back then they put a lever on those large frames that allowed the pump to be bypassed during starting.It was the park lever that was on the large frames.

Sounds like the pin on the cam has worn down or fell out.The relase would not work then.It's a easy fix.Worse part is pulling the motor.I would check it out as i have seen that pin fall out and the slinger picks it up and there goes the gov or cam gear.
 

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DR. Bolens
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19,074 Posts
Thanks for the info.
Just Goes to show you how well Bolens equipment was thought out. I never would have guessed they had a bypass. Guess it just goes to show you how much I know about the large Frames :wallbanging:

Never gave it a thought about the compression pin falling out....
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
bhts, thanks for the advice. Im going to hopefully hopefully run it the rest of the season and look at it in spring. The Bolens is the plow tractor, I got my Case 220 ready with the blower.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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bread320i said:
bhts, thanks for the advice. Im going to hopefully hopefully run it the rest of the season and look at it in spring. The Bolens is the plow tractor, I got my Case 220 ready with the blower.
Get a good strong magnet & put on bottom of the oil pan if possible. If pan is against a mount, then place on a side nearest the bottom. A STRONG magnet will have no problem attracting & holding the pin if it has fallen out.
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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Most all my engines have magnets on them, even my large farm tractors. I place them next to the drain plugs when possible, so as soon as I pull the plug, I pull the magnet off, so the flow will drag any accumulated metals on out into my drain pan. Amazing how many fine particles will be collected.
 
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