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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Re-rearrainging my shop and as I get sections of wall clear I'd like to apply (roller) bright white latex paint to the sheathing and studs for better light management. The weather's been totally nutz here, minus 5 the other night and +65 tomorrow... What's the worst that can happen to cheap-o latex drying in those conditions? I really don't care how the finish looks, I just want to know that it won't just curl up off the wall or something I've not yet thought of.:D
 

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I would say if you could get it painted in one day and it has time to dry by night fall you would be OK but if that night and the next day is going to be really cold and you don't have heat I'd wait. just my .02
 

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If the walls are fairly warm when the paint is applied and it has a few hours to dry, it should be okay. But I wouldn't apply latex paint if the temps are only above freezing for a few hours during the day. Do you have any heat in the building?
 

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The can might say what is required.. There is a lot of truth to what they put on em.. If your walls freeze up in the first 24 hours of painting it wont last long..
 

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Here are a few thoughts from one sight:

Painting in cold weather.

As the days become cooler through autumn and into winter, the application and proper curing of latex and oil/alkyd paint can be significantly affected by low air and substrate temperatures and increasing moisture levels.
Latex Paint:

Air Temperature - The proper formation of the paint film can be seriously affected if paint is applied when air temperature is below 50° F. Paint film may crack and check, and improper film formation may cause a powdery film that can be brushed off the substrate. This can cause the touch-up coat to look several shades lighter than the base coat.

Moisture Levels - The moisture level in the air increases as temperatures drop during the fall which can cause large amounts of condensation to form on exposed surfaces. If the condensation forms on a paint film that has not fully cured, it can cause surfactant bleed or shadowing, primarily in deep and accent colors as evidenced by glossy, dark streaks or blotches on the paint film. Condensation can also dramatically slow the dry time and cure time of the film, increasing the water sensitivity of the paint film until it has fully cured.

Substrate Temperature - When surface temperature of the substrate is below 50° F it can significantly slow the drying time and even prevent proper film formation of the paint. It is important to note that the surface temperature can vary between different areas on the same structure causing the dry time and proper film formation to vary as well.

Paint Temperature - The performance of the paint can also be affected by the temperature of the paint when it is applied. Store the paint in an area that will be at least 50° F. If the paint is applied when it is too cold it will not flow and level properly, leading to excessive film build, thereby slowing the dry and cure time of the film.

Here's to warm weather staying till things dry.
 

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Wait for spring and the hazardous curbside pickup, then drive around and get the good stuff early in the morning.
Our town has a "paint shed" at the dump, folks can drop it off, that's where I go.

P.S. Sometimes I find long ago banned chemical's that worked, there too. :watch_over_fence:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
:D"...get the good stuff early in the morning.":D I gotta get a "salad bar guard" for this keyboard!:D:D

In this enlightened NY county, disposal of all hazardous or old icky chemical compounds is an annual "official event" held in one central location. Sadly, they don't allow shopping for items that were once legal for killing bees or that predate California's product cancer warning. Once it's in the clutches of "THE Government Agency" they get to sort through the good stuff and then hire somebody to transport and dump the rest in some other state's landfill. (NY prefers to donate dangerous chemicals to "red states"!):D

Team_Green's "Latex Guidelines" make it clear now that I should just do the rearrainging, move the "must keep stuff", hang the tools and then when the weather becomes warmer more often, take the tools down and then carefully slop on the paint. I only hope that I can find the will to do this project. I actually did throw some stuff away and it has left me weak and I don't know if I can stand another self talking to about getting the painting done...:D
 

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My garage is uninsulated and I've thought about doing the same thing. It's so hard to get enough light in there with the bare wood walls. I'm thinking of at least gyprocking the ceiling this year and with that painted white it would make a big difference. The problem is what do I do with all the stuff I have stored up on the roof trusses. Same thing with insulating and finishing the walls. I have so much stuff hanging everywhere that I'd need to build a bunch of cabinets or shelves to hold it all. I agree with the others about the paint. It's better to wait til spring when you can guarantee a good job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I guess you know it is required of you to post a photo of the walls when you are finished.

Dick
Soitenly, nuk, nuk! :D

So I go out there today and open the door... and it's one of those balmy warm humid days following below single digit freezing days and every-thing is W-E-T with condensation. I figgered, "feel the wall surfaces", sure enough even the plywood sheathing is way damp. Spring painting it is then! I may rent a sprayer for this job since I'll have to go in and around hangers (nails/screws) and racks (pieces of 2X3 etc.). I hate rollering anyway... even more than I hate brushing.

I have an "attic" plywood deck over the joists plus there's a 6X6 hoisting frame along with the framing lumber to paint around. They left the end of the floor open to the back wall by about 4' and that's where the "long stuff" stands. The rest of the "ceiling" and all the framing painted white should really brighten it up over the work area.

Re. "brightening it up", I tried a 150w equivilent screw/CFL in the center of the ceiling between joists. For now it's on a drop cord w/no guard just to see what happens... WOW! Really fills in a dead spot I had when they put the new 8' fluro's in last year. Lots of "lumins" for a lot less (43w) watts. But, don't bet me started on the PAR38 CFL 75w replacement for the back yard flood light... P-O-S! While I squint into the darkness waiting for it to "come up" all the prowling animals (including 2 legged) can get away before I can see 'em.:D
 
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