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· Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As some of you know, I have had this non running 1650 for about 3 years. We have had a rocky relationship during that time. I was trying to get the the kohler running in it so I could move it out and get teh WH D160 in so I could put a diesel in it. Well the kohler kept fighting me and didnt want to be fixed yet. After getting the kohler back together and it decided to shear the key again I decided to put the Lombardini in it. I ordered the steel for the frame strech about a week ago and I finally had time to work on it today.

First off I am no welder, so a 1-2 hour job took all day for me. I decided to add 8 inches to the frame. I am trying to still be able to use a mower deck with it. Thats complicating things a little. I was originaly going to add 10 inches but I mocked it up and it was just too much. The first problem I encountered was that the frame is 5/16 thick. Nobody sells 5/16X4 flat bar so I ordered 1/4X4. I plan on doubling up by adding a "fish plate".I need to do this because 1: I suck at welding and dont want the tractor to fall apart and 2: to strenghten the frame. I was going to attemp the fish plate today but I was out of Oxygen for the torch, I will have to form the plate around the curve.

All work was done with a side grinder with cutter wheel and HF 170 amp MIG running Hobart 0.035 flux core. Welder settings were MAX 2 and wire speed varying between 6-8. Uphill MIG sucks!

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· Tractorholic
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No !!! "Up hill mig does not suck" Hobart flux core DOES!! GO get yourself some flux core from Lincoln, period!! you will be blown away at the difference!!
 
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Before I bought my Case 646 I was building the Snapper 1650 that is in my avatar. I built a loader for it, then the hydro took a crap. Then I went all out and was making it 4wd and diesel. It was using a Kubota D722. I added 6 inches to the frame right at the front, but didn't have to account for the front axle mount or a mower deck. I really liked the snapper, and how the project was going, just didn't have the time to put into it anymore.

Yours is coming along nicely, keep up the good work.
 

· Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
boss351c, I followed your thread on that build and drooled all over my computer. :D You did some great work on that beast. Wish I had your skills. I know you mothballed it when the case came in but I do hope you end up finishing it or sending it to NC for me on my birthday. :D

skyrydr2, I will go get some lincoln fluxcore before I weld anything else. I m sure its more my inexpeierence than anything but every little bit of help helps.
 

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This will be fun to watch, I like the idea. It's hard to see how much room you got underneath especially making room for your deck. Are you going to put any lateral bracing underneath? It looks like you might be a little weak between the front of your new plate back to the original section to prevent any twisting or racking the frame. It looks like your doing a nice job, this will be a beast when your done. :thumbs:
 

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The frames of these tractors are severely overbuilt. I doubt he will have any twisting problems. These are the same machines that were sold by Massey Ferguson in the late '70s. Almost the same as the 1655's and 1855's too.
 

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The frames of these tractors are severely overbuilt. I doubt he will have any twisting problems. These are the same machines that were sold by Massey Ferguson in the late '70s. Almost the same as the 1655's and 1855's too.
No twisting these unless you have a front end loader mounted, as I feel my 1655 frame flex with a load up off the ground on uneven surfaces. Once you reinforce this with another layer of 1/4" steel, you'll be good to go.
 

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Before I bought my Case 646 I was building the Snapper 1650 that is in my avatar. I built a loader for it, then the hydro took a crap. Then I went all out and was making it 4wd and diesel. It was using a Kubota D722. I added 6 inches to the frame right at the front, but didn't have to account for the front axle mount or a mower deck. I really liked the snapper, and how the project was going, just didn't have the time to put into it anymore.

Yours is coming along nicely, keep up the good work.
Is that build here on GTT? Either I missed it, or my memory has completely failed me.
 

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Not to side track this post, but here is the link to my abandoned Snapper build: http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=321426&highlight=

I am going to use the engine, transfercase, rear axle, and hydraulics from the snapper project to build a side by side UTV. This will give me a mini dump truck to use with the case loader, and keep the wife happy while letting me not sell off the bigger diesel!
 

· Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
UPDATE 2/14/14

Well what do you do with 2 snow days? You make progress!!! I managed to get the frame reenforcements made and mostly welded in. STill have the bottom sides to weld up. I also managed to get the motor mounts made and tacked in place. For the front motor mount I used the original (MF) vibration mounts and locations. I turned the AC engine mount upside down on the engine and bolted that to a piece of 1/4 steel which was then bolted to the isolation mounts. For the rear mount I used the orignal (AC) mount that was on the engine and a piece of angle iron. I used to AC isolation mounts and bolted them to the engine mount and the angle iron. Sa far as mounting the only thing left to do is finish welding everything up.

Now that its mostly mounted, I need ideas for getting the engine coupled to the drive shaft. There is 3 inches of hieght difference and about 6 inches from the drive shaft to the motor. I would like to get a drive shaft made but I dont think its going to be in my budget. So I am open for ideas.

On to the pics!

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· Tractorholic
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Thanks For the tip on the Lincoln wire, I got a 1lbs spool and wow what a difference! :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

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· Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
2/17/14 Update

Just a small update. I think I have figured out how I will setup the drive system. Using the original AC drive shaft, shortened to about 9 inches and mounted to the original AC coupling on one end with the other end supported in a bearing. That shaft now supported at bothe ends, will get a keyway and have a 15T 50P sprocket mounted on it. The MF splined shaft will get a splined coupler permently mounted on the end, another 15T 50P sprocket will then be installed on the coupler. I will have to weld in a bearing plate to support the AC shaft and the rest of the setup will be similar to the 1855/1655 system for tension but using chain instead of V belts.

Parts have been ordered from surplus center for less than $60.
 

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Just thinking out loud here. Your going to have one end of the shaft attached to the engine which is floating on rubber mounts and the other end of the shaft pass through a bearing that is bolted rigid to the tractor frame? You might want to consider mounting that bearing on a firm rubber mount to help eliminate stress to the shaft. I've done that in this in the past with excellent results. Actually used the rubber motor mounts from under a Kubota engine.
 

· Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just thinking out loud here. You might want to consider mounting that bearing on a firm rubber mount to help eliminate stress to the shaft. I've done that in this in the past with excellent results.
I knew there was a detail I was missing! Thanks for pointing it out. :thumbs:
 

· Tractorholic
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Drive parts arrived today but I wont get to play with it till this weekend. Kids have soccer practice every night except thursday. Hope to get the drive system sorted out and finish all the welding this weekend. Once thats done its onto the wiring and then running hopefully.
 

· Tractorholic
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Finally got some time this week to play with the drive setup. Its a straight rip off of the 1855 series drive setup. The parts were the original AC drive shaft shortened to 8 inches. Had to mill in a keyway for the sprocket hub. The sprocket is 15T 50P 3/4 hub. I used a flanged bearing to support the loose end. For the Snapper drive shaft I ordered a 3/4 11T coupler and milled in a 3/8 keyway. The sprocket hub is 15T 50P 1.5inch bore. The couping is 1.5OD and its a tight fit. I had an extra bearing carrier from an 1855 so I used it. The frame work will be mounted, with bolts, to the engine mount at the back of the engine. The C clamps are holding it now. I will also have to drill and tap the drive shaft so that I can secure the splined coupler on to it.

I picked up the 3/4 inch bearing I needed a TSC this week. I did not realize that they were a different OD than the orignal bearings used in the drive shaft setup. I was not able to use them, I have to get the correct carriers. I am unsure if the 2 piece drive shaft will work for this. If I use just the 1855 carrier, then the drive shaft has a lot of wobble due to the looseness where the 2 piece drive shaft is coupled. I plan on using the orignal 1650 shaft bearing set up to stableize the 2 pieces. The 1650 bearing is just a few inches away from where the 2 shafts are coupled. I dont know if using 1650 bearing will allow enough movement in the forward shaft to allow for tightening the chain drive.

I I

I----I----------------------I-----====-----------------------=====--[hydro input]

I I

SP Front shaft Coupling Rear shaft coupling

Bearing Bearing

1855 1650

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