Kenny, that was my 1650 at plow day. Lol. She sure will need more weight. And no, she hasn't been out yet,hasn't been above zero here. I'm itching to try out her new plow I picked up on Monday thou. You know, I gotta try it out first,to make sure it works right.
Snapper 1855 Project
I've been looking for a (super) garden tractor that can do some grading work, can fit 26x12x12 tires, has an excellent reputation, is (VERY) cheap, and isn't the same machine that every man and his brother has, like the typical John Deere or Cub Cadet.....no offense guys, they're great tractors but I like more of the odd ball stuff). A little while back here on GT talk I saw a Snapper 1855 and loved it and said I'd love to find one if the price was right. A short time later one popped up here locally on Craigslist for $850 and it was kind of rough, but not too bad, but I couldn't justify spending that much. Then I saw one a couple weeks ago on Craigslist only a couple of hours after it was listed and I offered the guy $500 for it and we made the deal and I picked it up later that night. I heard they were big, but this thing seemed HUGE when I saw it in person, I was impressed! It ran great, it drove, but there were some cob job hacks done to it, but nothing major that I couldn't undo. The worst was the awful spray bomb paint job, but mechanically it was very good and didn't seem to have that high of hours on it.
I was buying other tractors like Sears Suburbans and Sears GT's, but really wanted a deal on a super garden tractor like a Sears FF, so that I could put big ag tires on it, a sleeve or 3 point hitch, etc, etc, but this latest Snapper 1855 purchase was the real deal and it has a 3 point hitch that I can use a box scraper on. But first I'm going to get it looking good and I want to do it like I do all my projects, the work being done by me, on a budget....shopping around to get the highest quality parts at the lowest possible price, and making it look great. Here's the rundown of what I have so far:
I'm going to do it up as a Massey 1855 because I like the looks of them and I have a matching vintage Massey dump cart that my friend gave me for free.
-The rear tires are shot, so I'll be painting the wheels and putting on some 4 ply Goodyear Super Terra Grip Ag tires that I have left over from some of the 6 wheel Amphibious ATV's that I work on. Cost- Free
-The grille was pretty dinged up and it didn't have the headlight panel, lights, wiring or mesh, so I got a complete front grille assembly with all those parts.
Cost-$70
-New Decals from Maple Hunter
Cost-$35
-Someone put some weird semi-triangular shaped steering wheel on my tractor so that has to go
Cost for a replacement from a Massey 1200 $25
-Another townie cob job artist stripped the brass high speed screw in the carburetor, didn't screw down the choke cable retainer so I got it out and secured the choke cable
Cost $10
-The tractor, when I was steering it in the snow, didn't go where I was steering with the front turf tires, it just kept going straight, so after reading all about the Vredstein V61 tires I decided I'd go for a set. They were WAY more than I wanted to spend but I got them for a little more than $135 shipped with all my ebay discounts and stuff.
It will still need the correct ignition switch (another townie hack put a toggle switch to spin the starter motor), a nice (and correct) paint job, the engine tin for the right side cylinder head on the Onan engine, a new seat because someone put a crappy old incorrect one on there, and all the fluids and filters changed. It does have a new battery though, which was nice to see. So right now I have $500 in the tractor and roughly $275 in parts. I really didn't want to spend so much, but I hope to have it all done and looking good for just under $1,000 hopefully. A somewhat low hour, Snapper/Massey 1855 that's all done up like this with three 3 point hitch for under a grand seems as though it can be justified. I highly doubt it'd be possible to find a very nice John Deere 420 or Cub 982 for that kind of money.
I was buying other tractors like Sears Suburbans and Sears GT's, but really wanted a deal on a super garden tractor like a Sears FF, so that I could put big ag tires on it, a sleeve or 3 point hitch, etc, etc, but this latest Snapper 1855 purchase was the real deal and it has a 3 point hitch that I can use a box scraper on. But first I'm going to get it looking good and I want to do it like I do all my projects, the work being done by me, on a budget....shopping around to get the highest quality parts at the lowest possible price, and making it look great. Here's the rundown of what I have so far:
I'm going to do it up as a Massey 1855 because I like the looks of them and I have a matching vintage Massey dump cart that my friend gave me for free.
-The rear tires are shot, so I'll be painting the wheels and putting on some 4 ply Goodyear Super Terra Grip Ag tires that I have left over from some of the 6 wheel Amphibious ATV's that I work on. Cost- Free
-The grille was pretty dinged up and it didn't have the headlight panel, lights, wiring or mesh, so I got a complete front grille assembly with all those parts.
Cost-$70
-New Decals from Maple Hunter
Cost-$35
-Someone put some weird semi-triangular shaped steering wheel on my tractor so that has to go
Cost for a replacement from a Massey 1200 $25
-Another townie cob job artist stripped the brass high speed screw in the carburetor, didn't screw down the choke cable retainer so I got it out and secured the choke cable
Cost $10
-The tractor, when I was steering it in the snow, didn't go where I was steering with the front turf tires, it just kept going straight, so after reading all about the Vredstein V61 tires I decided I'd go for a set. They were WAY more than I wanted to spend but I got them for a little more than $135 shipped with all my ebay discounts and stuff.
It will still need the correct ignition switch (another townie hack put a toggle switch to spin the starter motor), a nice (and correct) paint job, the engine tin for the right side cylinder head on the Onan engine, a new seat because someone put a crappy old incorrect one on there, and all the fluids and filters changed. It does have a new battery though, which was nice to see. So right now I have $500 in the tractor and roughly $275 in parts. I really didn't want to spend so much, but I hope to have it all done and looking good for just under $1,000 hopefully. A somewhat low hour, Snapper/Massey 1855 that's all done up like this with three 3 point hitch for under a grand seems as though it can be justified. I highly doubt it'd be possible to find a very nice John Deere 420 or Cub 982 for that kind of money.
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So it sounds like these big Masseys have some serious grunt to them!
I'm going to continue to fatten the old girl up just to make sure I have ample traction. The 53 lb Wheel Horse wheel weights that I was going to get for $90 for the pair didn't end up fitting on the inside of my 1855 wheel, so I got a pair of 62 lb wheel weights (124 lbs total) for only $75 from a very nice man at a (somewhat) local tractor salvage yard. I think these may be Wheel Horse weights as well (a different style), but I have no idea. Maybe you guys could tell me. I'm going to have 3 different sets now on the rear wheels, Deere weights on the very outsides, Sears Suburbans inside those, and then these 62 lb Wheel Horse (?) ones that I just picked up on the inside of the rim for a total of about 300 lbs including mounting hardware on the rear wheels. I think I'm set for now with weight on the rear, so hopefully traction shouldn't be an issue when I'm pulling a 4 shank ripper or a 5 ft landscape rake on the 3 point hitch.
The only thing I'm slightly concerned about is that the 62lb weights that I'm going to use on the inside of the rim stick out about 1.5" from the edge of the wheel and I don't know if they're going to hit on anything on the frame or 3 point hitch assembly. I know I'm going to have to most likely remove my hubs when I go to install the weights since the center opening isn't as big as the hub itself, but I just don't want to run into any clearance issues. Since my tractor is apart at the minute, would one of you fellow Massey/Snapper owners be able to measure the edge of the rim to the nearest section of tractor frame so I'll know if these will work or not. If not, I'll have to get some Bolens HT wheels or Wheel Horse D series (160, 180, etc) with an extra inch offset. I really don't want to go that route, but we'll see. Here's a shot of another member's machine......it looks like there may be just enough clearance for the weights, but it's hard to tell for sure. Thanks in advance, guys!
![post-45112-0-39585300-1378331343.jpg]()
I'm going to continue to fatten the old girl up just to make sure I have ample traction. The 53 lb Wheel Horse wheel weights that I was going to get for $90 for the pair didn't end up fitting on the inside of my 1855 wheel, so I got a pair of 62 lb wheel weights (124 lbs total) for only $75 from a very nice man at a (somewhat) local tractor salvage yard. I think these may be Wheel Horse weights as well (a different style), but I have no idea. Maybe you guys could tell me. I'm going to have 3 different sets now on the rear wheels, Deere weights on the very outsides, Sears Suburbans inside those, and then these 62 lb Wheel Horse (?) ones that I just picked up on the inside of the rim for a total of about 300 lbs including mounting hardware on the rear wheels. I think I'm set for now with weight on the rear, so hopefully traction shouldn't be an issue when I'm pulling a 4 shank ripper or a 5 ft landscape rake on the 3 point hitch.
The only thing I'm slightly concerned about is that the 62lb weights that I'm going to use on the inside of the rim stick out about 1.5" from the edge of the wheel and I don't know if they're going to hit on anything on the frame or 3 point hitch assembly. I know I'm going to have to most likely remove my hubs when I go to install the weights since the center opening isn't as big as the hub itself, but I just don't want to run into any clearance issues. Since my tractor is apart at the minute, would one of you fellow Massey/Snapper owners be able to measure the edge of the rim to the nearest section of tractor frame so I'll know if these will work or not. If not, I'll have to get some Bolens HT wheels or Wheel Horse D series (160, 180, etc) with an extra inch offset. I really don't want to go that route, but we'll see. Here's a shot of another member's machine......it looks like there may be just enough clearance for the weights, but it's hard to tell for sure. Thanks in advance, guys!
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I may be joining you guys at some plow days now since I just picked up a Brinly PP-1200 plow for $175 for the 1855. I think she'll tug it along alright, but there's only one way to find out for sure. This may have been a bit much to spend for a 3 point implement that I wasn't really after, but I figured it doesn't hurt to have too many toys.
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I would! But I unfortunately don't have the rear PTO.Not a bad price at all! Do you want to buy a 4250 rototiller for your 1855 as well?
How much would you like to get for it? Maybe I can find a PTO setup somewhere.
Is this the pics I was looking at?So it sounds like these big Masseys have some serious grunt to them!
I'm going to continue to fatten the old girl up just to make sure I have ample traction. The 53 lb Wheel Horse wheel weights that I was going to get for $90 for the pair didn't end up fitting on the inside of my 1855 wheel, so I got a pair of 62 lb wheel weights (124 lbs total) for only $75 from a very nice man at a (somewhat) local tractor salvage yard. I think these may be Wheel Horse weights as well (a different style), but I have no idea. Maybe you guys could tell me. I'm going to have 3 different sets now on the rear wheels, Deere weights on the very outsides, Sears Suburbans inside those, and then these 62 lb Wheel Horse (?) ones that I just picked up on the inside of the rim for a total of about 300 lbs including mounting hardware on the rear wheels. I think I'm set for now with weight on the rear, so hopefully traction shouldn't be an issue when I'm pulling a 4 shank ripper or a 5 ft landscape rake on the 3 point hitch.
The only thing I'm slightly concerned about is that the 62lb weights that I'm going to use on the inside of the rim stick out about 1.5" from the edge of the wheel and I don't know if they're going to hit on anything on the frame or 3 point hitch assembly. I know I'm going to have to most likely remove my hubs when I go to install the weights since the center opening isn't as big as the hub itself, but I just don't want to run into any clearance issues. Since my tractor is apart at the minute, would one of you fellow Massey/Snapper owners be able to measure the edge of the rim to the nearest section of tractor frame so I'll know if these will work or not. If not, I'll have to get some Bolens HT wheels or Wheel Horse D series (160, 180, etc) with an extra inch offset. I really don't want to go that route, but we'll see. Here's a shot of another member's machine......it looks like there may be just enough clearance for the weights, but it's hard to tell for sure. Thanks in advance, guys!
![post-45112-0-39585300-1378331343.jpg]()
Here's a pic of mine from the original Craigslist ad:
It unfortunately doesn't have the PTO.
Come take your pick! I have two of the 4250 tillers...one is a Snapper 4250 and the other is a Massey 4250. Other than the sticker, they're identical. Both at Category 0 three point and designed for the 2,000 rpm rear ptos that the 1855 tractors have.
I'd like to keep one of them, but I'd sell the other. You can pick which one you want. Both of them work very well, and the tines on both are better than 75%...which leads me to believe that neither have been used very much at all. Both of them also have the adjustable slip clutches that show little sign of wear.
I'd like $600 for the one lacking paint. This is the one I commonly use. It does a tremendous job. It has a fresh oil change in the gear box.
The other one that still has its paint I'd like $800 for. It also comes with the smoothing "tail", and with the elusive cover for the chain and slip clutch. They are so frequently broken, that I took it off to make a pattern out of. But I'll include it in the sale of this nicer one, as it is a stellar little unit.
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Actually, make a trip down here with a trailer, and I'll load you up! Come take this chipper/shredder off my hands too. It originally had a little 5 hp engine on it, but I added a heavy duty gear box and made a 3 pt hook up. It works beautifully with the 1855s, and is much more heavy duty than the shiny tin metal jobs you'll find at Home Depot. $350.
![Wheel Tire Plant Motor vehicle Automotive tire]()
![Bumper Gas Automotive exterior Wood Auto part]()
Oh...and while you're at it, buy this heavy 6' back blade. Adjustable in several positions. Ugly, but tough! $150
![Automotive tire Road surface Wood Asphalt Twig]()
Oh. And if you bring a big enough trailer, I have an 1855 that I'll sell you for parts. It's missing the engine/battery, but I think otherwise it's pretty complete. It has a 3 point hitch and rear pto. $500 if you buy a tiller
And I'm sure there's more that I'm forgetting too. So come prepared to haul a load!
Oh...and while you're at it, buy this heavy 6' back blade. Adjustable in several positions. Ugly, but tough! $150
Oh. And if you bring a big enough trailer, I have an 1855 that I'll sell you for parts. It's missing the engine/battery, but I think otherwise it's pretty complete. It has a 3 point hitch and rear pto. $500 if you buy a tiller
And I'm sure there's more that I'm forgetting too. So come prepared to haul a load!
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OK, I made some more progress on the 1855 today. I got the running boards and rear fender pan and seat slider tracks removed and picked up some paint for it. The rust and years of crappy spray bomb paint made a few of the bolts hard to remove, but none of them broke..............yet (luckily). I thought it was pretty interesting, this is a Snapper 1855, but most of the bolts I removed had "MF" written in the head of them. Maybe they were leftovers from when they were branded as Massey Ferguson tractors or something? They were certainly some good high quality, USA made ones, because I put some torque on them and like I previously stated, none of them snapped or broke off. The screws, nuts, and bolts that are seen on the outer frame rail and side panels will be replaced with stainless steel ones (which I'll polish up a little too) for some "bright" effect, but tasteful. I like adding a few polished stainless steel or aluminum pieces to my projects, but just subtly. I think they'll really pop against the gloss black on the frame rails that I'll be doing. Here's the 1855 wearing a little less sheet metal. I also unscrewed the hydraulic filter to inspect the oil. It was light brown with a hint of some very fine metallic particles. This leads me to believe it hasn't been changed in quite a while and it may be why it isn't achieving top speed as well (thanks for your helpful suggestions on this issue, everyone!). Next up is to get the side panels off and get the bodywork cleaned up, get the few small dents and dings filled, and have them sandblasted to get the many coats of splattered and sprayed on incorrect paint and the rust and imperfections off the metal.
Every time I clean this tractor up and undo all of the townie cob job corner cutting I feel so much better. Looking at the horrible spray bomb paint, things like that bent up steering wheel, the over-spray on the plastic, and careless half-ass fixes on such a beautiful machine sickens me. I'm bringing her back to her former glory though......she'll be looking good again soon, slowly but surely.
Every time I clean this tractor up and undo all of the townie cob job corner cutting I feel so much better. Looking at the horrible spray bomb paint, things like that bent up steering wheel, the over-spray on the plastic, and careless half-ass fixes on such a beautiful machine sickens me. I'm bringing her back to her former glory though......she'll be looking good again soon, slowly but surely.
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