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I finally had some time to jump back on the 1000. I got this tractor last summer but have hardly put any time on it at all, a few weeks ago I replaced the head gasket and it has sat since.

When I bought this tractor and loaded her up on the trailer I noticed it was possible to roll it with the pin engaged, occasionally it would lock but by rocking it back and forth I could always get it going again with a "clunk" coming from the gearbox. The strange thing is that the tractor runs well with no noticeable issues. I thought it best to have a closer look inside the gearbox.

I took the cover off and although the inside of the gearbox with dirty the gears are in great shape.

There was this black tar like sludge covering everything so I decided to clean it out using the same method I used a few weeks back to clean the gearbox on the 850: diesel fuel in a garden pump sprayer, I got it looking pretty good except for a thicker layer of that black sludge stuck on the bottom, I left it soaking overnight.

Here are pictures of before and after

Tin Metal Wood Auto part Household hardware

Audio equipment Gas Auto part Cylinder Machine

Liquid Fluid Drinkware Cylinder Gas

Next I disassembled the right side of the axle to fix a wheel wobble, I had previously purchased the bronze bushings to replace them. I struggled somewhat to remove the wheel hub from drive collar and also noticed more that usual play along the keyway when rocking the wheel back and forth. Once it was out I noticed the bronze bushings were actually in not too bad of a shape but upon closer inspection I noticed the drive collar was cracked along the keyway, this explains the play I was having.

Automotive tire Wood Gas Rim Circle

Wood Audio equipment Cylinder Gas Rim

I was disappointed, this drive collar seemed in good shape with the locking tab intact. Luckily I had a couple spares including one NOS.

I intended to install my good used one which I had bought on eBay a while back, noticed it was also cracked along the keyway! There is definitely a weakness in this design.

Wood Musical instrument Gas Auto part Rim

Ended up using my NOS one which fits well on the old bronze bushings so I won't need to change them after all.

Automotive tire Bumper Wood Gas Engineering

Tomorrow I'll put everything back together and adjust the axle end play, hopefully that's all that is needed to fix the rolling problem.
 

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Getting Out!
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Wow! looks like lotsa gears and compact there! Bet a pain to take apart? Trying to see how it works. Guess that worm gear is main drive gear to rear, one side links to it, and on other side is the Differential then with spider gears and bigger taper ring gear? Then is that same worm shaft also the pto? or why does it go out back? Didn't seem direct enough to spin fast for pto, just wondering. Just a big bearing in case instead? Looking at pix, looks like a gear and something fallen down into the big drive gear, but on closer look, guess that is just the gear and casting of the idlers, just hard to imagine how they are mounted in that tight area. An engineering marvel to me, how they can figure out all those actions and directions in such a tight compartment. Just glad it's not ME trying to fix one of those, I would be lost for sure.
 

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A Little Off Plumb
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Gears look good and it was great that you had a new hub handy just in case. Those cracked hubs could be ground out where the crack is and bronzed or mig welded and then turned a little on the outside and have a piece of pipe pressed over the turned down section to strengthen them - would probably last a long time unless someone got really rough with them. Once the pipe was pressed on it could be turned down to the correct O.D. of the hub.
 

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Old, but not dead -- yet!
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Gears look good and it was great that you had a new hub handy just in case. Those cracked hubs could be ground out where the crack is and bronzed or mig welded and then turned a little on the outside and have a piece of pipe pressed over the turned down section to strengthen them - would probably last a long time unless someone got really rough with them. Once the pipe was pressed on it could be turned down to the correct O.D. of the hub.
Yes, that would be a good way to repair one. .....However, the key slot inside the hub is sometimes worn to almost twice the proper width.

The crack should not actually affect operation since that part is captive inside the bronze bushings. ...When the hub is pinned to the drive collar, all the stress is against the inner key slot. ....I believe that is what is causing the cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That is correct the key slot is damaged also, I guess it would be possible to have that fixed also but definitely can't just fix the crack and leave the slot as is.

After second thought, I decided to use another drive collar I have but it has a broken locking tab. I'll just redo the locking tab using JB weld as I did on a 850 I had. I did not want to use my NOS unit using an old key and not new bronze bushings.

I was surprised to notice that the 2 parts that make the drive collars are actually not pressed but they are screwed together.

Brown Water Liquid Fluid Wood Wood Sculpture Cylinder Artifact Natural material
 

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Man, that black sludge is bad. It's amazing how that thing kept moving. I love it when the oils are changed out and see the difference in the cleanliness of the gearbox. It did look pretty nice after hopefully none of the gears or shafts got worn. Nice job on it so far.
 
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Yes it is nasty stuff, left I soaking for 2 days now and it's not dissolving what's at the bottom of the casing. I'm not sure what that stuff is, it is like tar. Everything looks in good working order though including the bearings. If diesel doesn't dissolve it I doubt gearbox oil will so I may just live with a "stained" gearbox bottom casing.

Today I cleaned the drive collar in order to rebuild the tab using JB weld, when I did this experiment on the 850 the rebuilt tab cracked after a few hours of running due to the fact that the 1" pin hole had no play on the rebuikt tab but it had the usual play on the hub side from normal wear, the tab ended up taking extra stress and cracked.

What I intend to do with this time is to make the hole in the tab slightly bigger just to allow for some play, I also decided to drill and insert 1/8 roll pins to give it extra strength. Tomorrow I'll redo the tab.

View attachment 181833
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I keep jumping between Bolens related jobs, the 850 that I use for plowing is taking a lot of my time as it keeps dying on me and I have to keep fixing it.

I did get the collar finished off and it's now ready to be jnstalled, I used a different type of JB weld on this repair (original) and I'm hoping this will hold. I also made sure the 1" hole on the tab has a slight bit of play to allow the pin to have the usual movement without putting force on the tab.

Wood Household hardware Cylinder Metal Rectangle
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have the rear end of the tractor put back together, it looks like after adjusting the axel end play I can no longer roll the tractor when the pin is engaged, the axel end play must have been way out of adjustment.

The front tires go flat after a couple of days and that was next on the todo list, the tires aren't too weather cracked but leak around the beads. These rims are unique to the 1000 and 900 and I remembered I had a spare set of 900 rims in the shed, but they are in very poor shape.

I have been reading on and off about electrolysis, I decided to have a go at it. The 2 wheels were in similar shape so essentially these are the before and after pictures after 2 days in the tub and after 5 minutes of light brushing.

I still need to clean out my solution and the rods and I'll put them in for a few more hours. I'm quite happy with the results, no noise, no dust.

Automotive tire Fluid Wheel Rim Wood

Brown Wood Sculpture Gas Art

Cookware and bakeware Cuisine Cooking Automotive tire Tom-tom drum
 

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Check out this bead sealer. I made sure it was a Canadian product so you could find it. The US equivalent is what I use for all bead leaks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the link, I knew I should use some sort of sealer before I install the tires. B

A friend of mine runs a mechanic shop and has some as well. I may just get some from him as he will install the tires anyways.

I was just wondering if I should paint the inside of the rims or not?
 

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Thanks for the link, I knew I should use some sort of sealer before I install the tires. B

A friend of mine runs a mechanic shop and has some as well. I may just get some from him as he will install the tires anyways.

I was just wondering if I should paint the inside of the rims or not?
I always paint the insides! They do make moisture in there.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have spent some time running the tractor but I run into misfiring issues after the tractor runs for more than 4-5 minutes. I started looking at the ignition and noticed I had the wrong type of coil installed, it actually had the type that requires the external resistance and it did have an external resistance installed, sparks were coming off the resistance when the tractor was running so I figured this setup was a mess and ripped it all out and got the proper coil with the internal resistance (NAPA IC14) installed.

Got the tractor running with the new coil but strangely it behaved in the same manner and was misfiring after a few minutes of running. I figured I should have a look at the points box, I had not looked at the points since this was a running tractor when bought and also it has the hydraulic lift option which needs to be removed to properly service the points.

Once I had the hydraulic lift off, I removed the points cover and noticed there was no condenser, upon closer inspection I also noticed that the cable which comes from the +side of the coil did not go to stud on the bottom of the breaker box but instead it was wired through the breaker box stud hole directly to the points! The breaker box stud, nylon bushings and copper ribbon cable were all missing!

I took the missing parts from my spare tra10d and got everything installed properly, she now finally runs smoothly.

I was wondering why this engine ran so hot, what a hack job that was, I'm surprised it ran at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
For some people keeping the tractor running at the lowest cost possible is all that matters I guess!

I have to say this tractor runs really nice, no smoke at all and the transmission shifts perfectly. I still need to change the drive and pto belts, the drive belts are the wrong type which are not for clutching applications, they grab quite a bit and make it difficult to clutch out smoothly.
 
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