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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So in my previous post about my choke cable I mentioned I am having starting problems. So after some investagiting and some disassembly and some testing. It apprears my Solid State Coil has gone bad. I have read about the conversion that other members have done. I will most likily have to do the conversion.

I am wondering if anybody has any advice or tips.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Mike
 

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Tractorholic
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I am not expert in SSI matters, but I wasn't aware these coils worked "part-time". If you are having some difficulty cranking but it runs ok when it finally starts, I'd be looking at the position of the two triggering pins on the flywheel. Plus, rust and metal debris build up over time can cause issues too.
 

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Elf guardian
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Ah, the dreaded SSI failure.

I've been waiting for that day, for some time now.

I have 4 that thankfully, keep going.

And I have a spare, that you couldn't pry from my dead hands.

Sorry, I can't give you any advice.

There are a lot of threads about this topic.

And a lot of places out there on the world wide web, that cover this.

Best of luck, with the conversion. I'll be following along.
 

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Tractorholic
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I am with Howard on this one. I had one that rust was under the pin (on the bottom of the SSI) and it was grounding it out. after I cleaned it all out I had spark and the engine ran great.

I would check those flywheel pins like Howard said, clean everything good, and be sure the ignition switch is working. Did you disconnect the center wire coming out form behind the flywheel yet, 3 wires come out form behind it, The two outer go to the rectifier the center (green) goes to the ignition switch. Make sure that center wire isn't grounded all the time, as it is the kill wire.

Other than that I haven't done a conversion yet. Good luck on it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am not expert in SSI matters, but I wasn't aware these coils worked "part-time". If you are having some difficulty cranking but it runs ok when it finally starts, I'd be looking at the position of the two triggering pins on the flywheel. Plus, rust and metal debris build up over time can cause issues too.
I don't have a problem cranking. I cleaned the pins on the flywheel real good. My spark plug is getting no spark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ah, the dreaded SSI failure.

I've been waiting for that day, for some time now.

I have 4 that thankfully, keep going.

And I have a spare, that you couldn't pry from my dead hands.

Sorry, I can't give you any advice.

There are a lot of threads about this topic.

And a lot of places out there on the world wide web, that cover this.

Best of luck, with the conversion. I'll be following along.
Ah, the dreaded SSI failure....pretty much what I thought when we tested the coil. I would rather do a conversion as it would be the cheapest and why switch out a 40 year old part for another 40 year old part lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am with Howard on this one. I had one that rust was under the pin (on the bottom of the SSI) and it was grounding it out. after I cleaned it all out I had spark and the engine ran great.

I would check those flywheel pins like Howard said, clean everything good, and be sure the ignition switch is working. Did you disconnect the center wire coming out form behind the flywheel yet, 3 wires come out form behind it, The two outer go to the rectifier the center (green) goes to the ignition switch. Make sure that center wire isn't grounded all the time, as it is the kill wire.

Other than that I haven't done a conversion yet. Good luck on it!
We tested the wires coming out from beyond it and it all seems ok.
 

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Tractorholic
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We tested the wires coming out from beyond it and it all seems ok.
I would for the heck of it unplug that center wire (green) from the ignition switch and try it then. It goes to the "M" terminal on the switch.

I have checked out different articles on the conversion and it does seem like an easy fix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would for the heck of it unplug that center wire (green) from the ignition switch and try it then. It goes to the "M" terminal on the switch.

I have checked out different articles on the conversion and it does seem like an easy fix.
Which manual would have the wiring diagram?
 

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You can also disconnect the wire that comes from the switch at the terminal board on the tin of the engine at the 7:30 position when you look at the flywheel.
I am not sure that is correct, you cannot disconnect that single one that comes up the front of the flywheel tin, that is the wire that feeds the SSI module at least it is on my 16's. Check that wire though as if it gets chaffed off, it will ground out and prevent spark. Should have I think 137ohms resistance or you can hold between your fingers and turn flywheel over by hand should feel some tingle.

To eliminate the switch circuit to check it, disconnect the 3 wire plug that comes from the rear of the flywheel going up to the regulator. The 2 outside wires are for the reg, the center wire is the kill wire going to the switch. You can disconnect it for a bit with no issues, the battery is only needed to start the motor, once running the stator creates it's own power to run. If still no spark, then it's not a switch issue.

I had 2 modules go out intermittent once motor got hot after 20-30 mins of running, I went through 2 modules within 1 month :wallbanging: :( . They would be fine, then motor would die. After 10 mins of cool down it would srtart back up until module finally bit the dust.

I have a custom battery coil conversion on my OH160, but we removed the flywheel pins, glued in a magnet and use a pickup switch like on Kohler puller motors.

If you want a direct easy cheesy replacement, look at Dale Colvert's Overnight solutions ignition. It runs around $150 and works just like the factory module.

You can also convert over to a battery coil system, check out Ed SToller's www.enginesandmagnets.com site, he sells a pickup, tells you how to do it or he has a friend who sells a complete kit with all proper components.

I have another 16 I will be doing a conversion on, I am going with Dale's system this time around so I don't have to worry about having a good battery or charging system in case something goes wrong.

There is no way I would pay the highway robbery people are wanting for the 40 yr old used parts on evilbay when you can buy new electronics that can be replaced easily much cheaper.

Mine are all on the 16 Hp on Sears, but should be basically the same. I've learned way more than I ever wanted about these stupid things over the last year. :D
 

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Proud to be Deplorable
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Thanks Tahoe, excellent writeup and great info.
The wire I was referring to was the kill wire from the ignition switch. Almost all of mine are on the little fiber board at the 7:30 position, I guess some late models may have been in a harness or behind the tin work...

On a non-converted older Teccy, if you disconnect that wire, there is no kill via switch which is an easy to do troubleshooting test to see if you have a bad switch. If the engine runs when disconnected and doesn't when hooked back up... Bingo. Also allows you to test for that problem without digging into the dash wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tahoe,

Thank you very much for the write up. I will try those things you suggested. I'm afraid I'm going to learn alot about these stupid things as well!
 

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Thanks Tahoe, excellent writeup and great info.
The wire I was referring to was the kill wire from the ignition switch. Almost all of mine are on the little fiber board at the 7:30 position, I guess some late models may have been in a harness or behind the tin work...

On a non-converted older Teccy, if you disconnect that wire, there is no kill via switch which is an easy to do troubleshooting test to see if you have a bad switch. If the engine runs when disconnected and doesn't when hooked back up... Bingo. Also allows you to test for that problem without digging into the dash wiring.
Ok, the older ones maybe different or a little different on all my Sears -vs- a Massey. I know both my 12 and 16's have a wire that comes up from the front that comes from the stator that feeds the module. If you unplug, you will get no signal going to module thus no fire. My kill wires come down through the charging harness and into the back of the flywheel and into stator and grounds out the 2 stator" fingers" responsible for charge to module.

I think the 10 amp system has 10 or 12 "fingers" for charging and feeding the coil, the larger 20 amp systems have 18 fingers, each use 2 for module all the other are used for charging battery.

I like my conversion as the tractor has never ran better, but a plague of charging woes ( regulator issues) has left me dead a few times as I need that battery to keep the ole girl running. I was running a Kohler 15 amp regulator, but my 20 amp system along with my winch burnt it up. I am looking to try using an Onan 20 amp regulator next time around. I am currently just running off a GM alternator I mounted on side, it keeps the charge at a nice 14.8 volts. Runs tractor and winch all day long.

My system is a one of a kind designed by a pulling buddy of mine, but I will be buying Dale's Overnight solutions setup next go around as it costs about the same as my setup, but it is just like factory, does not need the battery to keep running.

Keep us updated on your findings.

They are not bad to fix once you learn how it all works and the solutions out there.

Brain Miller also sells some pickup sensors on his graden tractor pulling tips website.

This maybe sacrilege to some for me to post the link, but a very good write up on installations of Dale's system on an OH160 :D

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=268026&highlight=[/url]
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Lol it's not sacrelege. I belong their as well. I'm hoping to get this testing done this weekend. Your right on with the description of the wiring. The wire does go behind the flywheel. We tested that and it was good.
 

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You will have a total of 4 wires going behind flywheel, one comes up and attaches to the SSI module, that's the feed wire to give it the juice to create fire. 2 together are charge wires going to the regulator, then 1 other should go up to switch which is kill wire.

I correct myself, the 10 amp system does have 12 poles or fingers, but only one is used for the ignition not 2, other 11 for the charging system.

Oh, and the flywheel magnets can be glued back....don't ask me how I know :wallbanging: :wallbanging:

I have actually dissected a module and was going to follow Ed's instructions by still using it for a pickup signal and use the Chrysler controller and coil, but decided to get away from the battery ignition. Was going to try to do it for under $50 :rocker2: :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok so I've done some testing. Magneto seems to be bad. Alternator has a chaffed wire on the inside of it. My buddy is going to bring it to his school and see if they can replace the wire, and see if they can fix the magneto. My question is what is the red kinda fuzzy wire that my buddy is holding? It is somewhat messy and def seems like it shouldn't be like this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
In the first picture you can see the top of it at the 12 o clock position. It was behind the alternator.
 
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