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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend has a stripped drain plug on the rear end of his 1886. He can't get an allen wrench in there and does not know how to get the plug out. I was thinking maybe it would be good to drill and tap a new hole near the bottom of the sump and let the oil in there drain out and push out any metal chips. Any thoughts?
 
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It must be pretty flush or you would've tried vise grips. As for the chips, I would leave the oil in there to keep them from bouncing around for the first drilling. Then, when you get the plug drilled out and all the metal working is done, I would flush with kerosene several times.

Watch driving things in (drill hole and drive in Allen Wrench to try to take it out) as cast may not react well to impact and then you're looking for a case or different tranny.

Any chance someone could weld a nut on the end of the plug without welding the plug in?
 

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I have had success with using left handed drill bits (designed to drill in the loosening direction of standard threads) and the straight shank easy outs. The spiral style easy out is designed to 'expand' as it grips into the material and actually makes the threads tighter.

I'll get you some pics shortly of the tools I speak.
 
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Here are the pics I mentioned on the extractors. #1 - Spiral type. #2 - Fluted type. #3 - reverse (left handed) drill bits.

1008140826-00.jpg 1008140827-00.jpg 1008140827-01.jpg
 

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And if the housing is cast iron you should use some PB Blaster to help soak any rust in the threaded area.
 

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I've had some luck with using a metric wrench on an SAE nut, bolt, plug that is stripped out. I'll force the socket on and then use an impact driver to try and brake it free.
 

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I would drill out the existing plug before I tried to add a second hole to the case. Is the case cast iron or aluminum? It's not easy but I've done it many times on stripped stainless steel pump fittings here at work. If you are careful you can usually get it out without damaging the threads, at least on the sizes that I've been working with. It might not be practical if the hole is larger than 5/8" or if it's in a position where you can't easily work at it.

Is there any chance you could extract the oil from the system rather than use the drain. That would push the problem down the road but depending on how much the tractor gets used it may be a long road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Guys thanks for all the ideas. I am going to point him to this thread to see your suggestions. This is an 1886 so the material is cast iron for the case and most likely black iron or steel for the plug. The pictures of the ez outs is great.
 
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I would drill it as close to center as I could get then just keep going a size bigger until you are near the threads. Then take a cape chisel and work the rest of it out.
 

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The little short easy outs may do it, too. I have used them before in a similar situation.

28774d1285132629-diy-removing-broken-bol


Ben W.
 
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Also, try a new allen wrench. I weakened and bought an expensive set with the lifetime warranty (Mac tools since I have never been into the "Snap On Image") and have replaced them anytime the look dicey.

Its amazing what a new allen wrench can do. With sharp edges, you can sometimes get a grip when you thought you couldn't.

Ben W.
 
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Before you drill,place as strong a magnet as you can find right next to where you drill. It will retain all the chips, and once the plug is out, you can drag the magnet to the hole, and almost all the chips will follow it. On a lot of things I'll leave a magnet in place at the bottom of gear cases to hold & trap particles.
 

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How big is this plug? If it's 1/2 inch--just drill out the center and tap it for a 1/4 inch plug.If you go this route or if you do get the old one out replace it with a brass plug,it wount rust in again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I gave him this post to look at. He already ordered some easy outs. You guys all have provided some really good information. I did not realize how many ways there were to remove a stuck plug :D
 
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