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so i have took the cylinder head off my hh140 from the g14 that i bought on the weekend and i have found the problem
OH NO
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i think the head is screwed and the piston is pretty rough how ever the bore is good is sucks the valve seat came out and it looks like it swallowed a bolt i might be able to get it cleaned up or there is a head at the scrap yard on a BLOWN sears what do you guys suggest or a RE-POWER ??? also the crank shaft the counter weights have marks on the corner and the crank seal needs to be replaced there should be a vid on youtube soon with cleaning to motor
cheers
8tyman8
 

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Connoisseur of Rusty Junk
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That stinks! It doesn't really look too bad though. If you have a fully capable repair shop locally, they should be able to repair / replace the seat and valve. I wouldn't worry about the piston head. It appears to be structurally sound. As far as the rest of the repairs, the seals shouldn't be too tough or expensive, and it depends what the marks in the counter weight are caused by. Best of luck with it, whatever you decide to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
here is with the valve and seat out
IMG_0300.JPG
 

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DR. Bolens
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That stinks! It doesn't really look too bad though. If you have a fully capable repair shop locally, they should be able to repair / replace the seat and valve. I wouldn't worry about the piston head. It appears to be structurally sound. As far as the rest of the repairs, the seals shouldn't be too tough or expensive, and it depends what the marks in the counter weight are caused by. Best of luck with it, whatever you decide to do.


It looks like it can be saved
 

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I think it can be saved I have an 8hp briggs that the seat kept popping out on. I talked to a guy who fixes small engines and he said put the seat back in and on the very edge of it use a punch and kind of make a dent on the edge of the block and were the seat starts.
 

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RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres
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I think it can be saved I have an 8hp briggs that the seat kept popping out on. I talked to a guy who fixes small engines and he said put the seat back in and on the very edge of it use a punch and kind of make a dent on the edge of the block and were the seat starts.
That is called "Swedging" the seat. You can also get over-sized seats and have a machine shop bore the head to accept the new seat. This is very repairable, and most machine shops can fix you up. Good Luck!!
 
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It should not be to tough for a machine shop to handle. The piston integrity appears to be OK. As for the marks on the counter weight, it depends on the cause of the marks. you should be OK with repair instead of a repower.

Geno
 

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the homeless tractor hoarder
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5,247 Posts
My '73 G14 Bolens did that very thing back about 1993. I took it apart, cleaned the burrs off the head so the seat would lay as it should. Then I took a hammer and punch to it as bolens1053 said in post #6. I sold that tractor to a family member in 1999 but know to this day that seat is still held tight and the engine runs fine. I reused the old valve because a new exhaust valve at that time [retail] was about $60.
Something about what it was made of to handle the heat.
 

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Proud to be Deplorable
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Had an 18 Briggs twin that did this on both exhaust cyl. Found out the reason was the aftermarket mufflers let it cool down too fast and the different metals were shrinking at different rates.

We made a bunch of small dimples around , swedgeing slightly so it was a press fit. Before we put the seat in, we put a skim coat of JB weld and after, we put the seat in, we went around and swedged around the edge too. We added some piping to try to recreate a similar length exhaust to original. Lasted another year at least and was a runner when it ended up getting sold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hello every one i got some parts to fix the engine but i ran into some problems the engine that was at the scrap yard got bought and a guy i know had bought it so i met up with the guy that had the parts and his house 30 min away from me well he was in town and he was 10 min away so we met up and i had brought the stator and head well the stator i have is 10 amp and the one he had was 20 and the fly wheels are different and he said that the fly wheel was at the house so out i go i got the fly wheel and the solid state pin id broke i get the head and i go home
i got the
head
stator
valves
valve springs
collets
and most of the top end for
$50
here are the problems
valve seat in new head is a little lose not alot
plug on stator was different just cut the old one off and put the one from the 10 amp
fixed fly wheel
so do i leave the head alone or do i fix it ? how should i fix it with out taking valve seat out i heard you can get like Liquid metal thats penetrating like a lock tight
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Tractorholic
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In a case of a loose valve seat, you just go around the edge with a prick punch.Doing that locks it in place. There may even be an old thread with pictures form someone that did this. I know I've even seen pictures in some repair manuals. If I find any I will post them for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
so as chris and many others said peen it in that i did will try to get the motor together tomorrow and hopefully start it on Monday or Tuesday
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
so i got it back together lost some stuff along the way lost Governor linkage and a couple bolts but no big deal put it back on the tractor and i turn key puff of smoke pop pop bang and it roars to life still needs work tho need to pull the transmission cover because some one took the hitch bolt out and dirt has got in . its not charging the battery yet
 
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