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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Is this real or a hustle? I have a 2015 Ariens 19 hp 42" lawn tractor. I just replaced the transmission, myself. I was led to believe it was "plug and play". Not so. It would not move. The accelerator pedal only went about half way down and did not feel right. I took it to the shop. Tech (mech?) reported that he got it to move a littled and the tranny would have to be aligned. I don't see any left/right, forward/back way to move the tranny when installing. It looks as if it goes straight in. The drive belt is new and the engine pulley is spinning but the belt does not engage when the accelerator is depressed. There are two spindles on the top of the tranny. The back spindle looks as if it may move when looking at the old tranny on the bench. So, any comment on aligning my tranny. The shop hasn't done the "alignment" as of yet. This week I am told.
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Sorry about the first 3 photos being the same. I don't see an Edit function after posting. Mia culpa!
In the upper RH corner are 3 dots. Edit is in there.
 
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Thanks. That worked. Now if I could get a response to my question it would be even better.
I don't have an answer for that! Give the folks a little time to find your posting.
 

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Now if I could get a response to my question it would be even better.
Not familiar with the CVT belt system on a lawn or garden tractor setup but have worked on them years ago on snowmobile applications. This link may help you a bit with understanding how they operate - Snowmobile CVT Drives - Snowmobile.com
On snowmobiles the drive pulley was mounted on the engine crankshaft and at idle the clutch did not engage with the belt but as the engine speed increased slightly the one half of the pulley face would move in towards the belt, make contact with the edge of the belt and then the belt would start to turn as it became trapped against the two pulley sheave faces. The system on snowmobiles required the pulley face that slid be easy to move and not binding - usually moved on a bushing that was bronze or nylon. Looking at the pictures there appears to be some rust in spots on the pulley face and also where the one half of the drive face would move near the center area so the pulley face may be partially seized making it not engage with the belt properly and also making it hard to move since you mention that the accelerator only moves half way and "doesn't feel right". Just speculation on my part but if the replacement tranny has sat outside for any length of time I would check to make sure things move freely - just an observation - hope it helps.
 

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Not familiar with the CVT belt system on a lawn or garden tractor setup but have worked on them years ago on snowmobile applications. This link may help you a bit with understanding how they operate - Snowmobile CVT Drives - Snowmobile.com
On snowmobiles the drive pulley was mounted on the engine crankshaft and at idle the clutch did not engage with the belt but as the engine speed increased slightly the one half of the pulley face would move in towards the belt, make contact with the edge of the belt and then the belt would start to turn as it became trapped against the two pulley sheave faces. The system on snowmobiles required the pulley face that slid be easy to move and not binding - usually moved on a bushing that was bronze or nylon. Looking at the pictures there appears to be some rust in spots on the pulley face and also where the one half of the drive face would move near the center area so the pulley face may be partially seized making it not engage with the belt properly and also making it hard to move since you mention that the accelerator only moves half way and "doesn't feel right". Just speculation on my part but if the replacement tranny has sat outside for any length of time I would check to make sure things move freely - just an observation - hope it helps.
I would agree with this analysis but would like to add my experience with these. With similar snow mobile clutches, they were very temperamental with rust and worn bushings. Back then, you could just about bet the clutch would be sticking following a summer of sitting still. It was to the point I (we and others) annually disassembled the two sheaves and cleaned them up in anticipation of winter use. Changing out the bushings was just routine maintenance after a few seasons.

Those were centrifugally actuated where the increase in engine RPM would engage and change the ratio and the speed of the machine. Yours seems to be a bit different where the speed is controlled by a linkage to whatever speed control the machine has. Along with cleaning up the clutches, I would spend time making sure that linkage is free and correct. I would be surprised if there was an issue with the "tranny alignment" you refer to.
 

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I had the same machine but kept loosing ground speed. This was because the lower belt that is in the picture was slipping. First had this issue 6 months after purchase and again 3 months later. When i contacted the manufacturer they said it would not be a warranty covered issue because my yard has a standard 1 foot deep ditch along the street and this machine was not desined to mow uneven surfaces. I was instructed that I voided any warranty because my use was not 100% flat. That being said, the only adjustments I can think of may have to do with the linkages. The trans is mounted at a rigid setting, and the only allignments that I can see are linkage, pulley, and /or belts.
 

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The bottom half of the ‘engine belt’ pulley is still on your old trans.. did the new trans come with one? If half of that pulley is missing on the new trans that would sure explain it. Other than thati would say it’s a linkage assembly/adjustment issue. Travel pedal not moving or feeling the same as before is a big telltale there. When you say the belt does not move, which belt?
 
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