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Tube Frame hydraulic lift system.

3355 Views 85 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  turmlos
I have had this unit for a few years now. I had bought a rather shabby 1000 tractor just because it had a nice pair of Bolens script rear wheel weights and this hydraulic lift unit on it. I decided to get it out and have a look at it, it's all been sitting on a shelf in my barn about 4 years now. I saw this all
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work while on the 1000 so I know the pump unit should be useable pretty much as-is. Today I got some of it apart and started the cleanup process. There was a diecast pulley on the pump with chunks broken out of it. I had to use a puller to persuade it off the shaft. I bought a new stamped steel pulley for it shortly after I took the unit off the 1000 tractor. I have also made two new mounting rails as the one of the original ones had been broken and welded back together. I used 3/4" square stock because that's what my local steel supply place had on hand. Original bars were 5/8" wide by 3/4" tall. New ones will be a bit stronger. I will probably go to the local NAPA and have new hoses made. I suspect the lift cylinder might seep a bit of oil as the rod has some pitting in the chrome. Not sure exactly what direction I will go on that issue yet. There seems to be orange or possibly very faded red paint here and there showing. I have run most of it through the parts wash tank and gotten a lot of dirt, gunk off them, quite a bit of cleaning to do yet. Going to have to fab a belt guard too as the original is long gone, only scraps of some of it were left under the pump mounting bolts. Thinking about putting this lift system on my mutt 1254 tractor.
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Doing a bit of cleanup today on the pump and cylinder. The tag on the pump unit is quite faded and all I can read are Made In USA and numbers 15A75 and 44175. I surmise those are the model and serial numbers. Definitely some spots of black paint over top of cordovan brown paint that has orange paint underneath that and appears to have been put over bare metal with no primer. I have lots of sanding to do. I found that the control valve that I am pointing to has a spring return to center action going counterclockwise but does not going clockwise from center. This is the first one of these units I have ever owned or had my hands on so I'm not sure if that is correct
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or not. Seems like it ought to return to center by spring action from both directions? I will try and do a bit of research later and maybe figure it out. I do remember that the unit seemed to work with the cylinder extending and retracting when I tried it on the tractor it was removed from.
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Sounds like one of the fingers on the return spring is broken inside. Here is a link to the manuals on the two pump numbers that Bolens offered if you don't have a copy. I think some of the units were made by Heinz Werner which may explain the orange paint.
Bolens Hydraulic Lift Kit 18703-05 and 18709
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If you have a hydraulic shop near you they may deal with a company that custom makes cylinders to size. If they do they may be able to supply a new piston rod if that one leaks if you can supply the sizes of yours - just a suggestion.
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Check with Brian at Bolens Parts & Supplies. .....I think he had some of the return springs for the control valve in the past.

Some of the pumps were made by Hein-Warner (the hydraulic jack company).
....The other brand of pumps used were by Century.
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Ok, thank you both for the info! I saved the pdf link for the hydraulic lift manual. I will surmise I have the first version as the ram is the smaller diameter piston rod [1/2"] and the pump mounting bolts etc. most closely resemble the early version. I see the spring item #54 in the diagram. I will also surmise like stated, it must be broken. Time for a disassembly and inspection. I might have gotten a bit ahead of myself this afternoon. I got out the air and electric tools and ground, sanded, and buffed most of the parts clean for a coat of primer. Still have hardware and some small parts yet to do. I found a stress crack in the pump mounting bracket after I got the paint and rust sanded off. Cracked right at one of the four holes where the pump bolts on. I wonder if that was caused by whatever broke one of the original support bars? I Veed the crack both sides, welded and ground it smooth. Did lots of work with a cupped wire brush on a grinder and sanding discs with the small angle grinder on the two mounting brackets. There is quite a bit of pitting on the bracket the cylinder bolts to and a bit here and there on everything else, so I used the rust converter type primer on what I had ready. That should deal with any traces of rust lurking in the pitted areas. It was just warm enough today that I was able to open the garage doors while I was priming. The fumes drifted away and didn't stay inside. So, I will probably give pump and cylinder a coat of color next to seal the primer. After working on them they can be wiped clean, scuffed and painted again. The two hoses are junk for sure.
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Sounds like your spring is broken I do stock reproductions .
There were a few deisgn changes to these over the years one being the mount rails , you have the early set before they beefed them up so they would be less prone to cracking . These were pretty well built units and really the only things that usually break time to time are the springs and seals need replacing . Sometimes if the spring would break away at the wrong spot it would get sucked into the gears and grenade them . The cylinders if left exposed will get pitted and if that happens no seals will fix it they will always slowly weep I may have some good used ones and can look if needed
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Thanks for the info! I'll be contacting you in the not-too-distant future about the spring. I went through the oil seepage issue with a pitted cylinder rod on my H14 tractor. Cylinder worked fine it just was always damp. I replaced the complete cylinder.
Sounds like your spring is broken I do stock reproductions .
There were a few deisgn changes to these over the years one being the mount rails , you have the early set before they beefed them up so they would be less prone to cracking . These were pretty well built units and really the only things that usually break time to time are the springs and seals need replacing . Sometimes if the spring would break away at the wrong spot it would get sucked into the gears and grenade them . The cylinders if left exposed will get pitted and if that happens no seals will fix it they will always slowly weep I may have some good used ones and can look if needed
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Wow Dave, that cleaned up really nice. Mine also gets stuck on one direction if I take it to far. I always thought it was like a free float option like my jd 140. It has that same pop and stays in place to float the deck so never put much thought to it... come to think of it, I dont think I have ever even tried it. Looking forward to seeing you crack this open. Might have to do the same thing.
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Well, I have been a bit sidetracked by some suddenly needed maintenance on my pick-em-up truck. 2012 Sierra with 72K on the meter. Last Saturday I heard a grumble in the left front and it was getting progressively louder before I made it back to home base. Truck is in the garage up on jackstands getting both front hub-bearing assemblies along with new brakes on all four corners. The rotors, pads had a few miles left in them still, but the rear shoes were getting close to used up, maybe were original ones it was born with? So, I decided to go ahead and do it all now as long as it was in the garage and I had the tools out. I would have just had to repeat part of the process later on anyway, so now was the time to deal with it. So, while waiting for some parts to come in I decided to take a look the pump unit. I gave it a coat of black color to seal the primer a few days ago. First thing as I was removing the masking tape the little tag came right off. If I had known it wasn't stuck to the pump canister very well, I would have just peeled it off before I started sanding on it. I took a bunch of time to make sure I didn't mess up the tag while I was cleaning around it. Oh well, now I can do a better job of sanding and redo the paint. No biggie. Upon removing the canister from the pump, I found that the return spring indeed was missing one of its arms. Fortunately, it looked like a clean break with only the one large piece and no small metal fragments present. Saw no signs of any damage on the broken off piece like it had got into the pump gears so that was a very good find. Have contacted Bolens Parts and Supplies about a new spring. Definitely enough pitting on the cylinder rod to cause leakage, so I will have to come up with a solution for that.
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Curiosity got the best of me, and I decided to remove the pumps gear cover and see what things looked like inside there. By removing the 6 screws the end plate comes right off. Typical gear pump. Found a bit of a wear pattern on the faces of the gear teeth and the end plate as one could expect. Overall, not too bad, I've seen much worse than this. I decided to clean up the gear mark pattern on end plate. I rubbed it back and forth and around and around on a sheet of sandpaper on the table of my table saw as that is about the flattest thing I have on hand. Started out with 100 grit paper to remove material faster and worked my way up to 220 grit for the finish. Took about a half an hour to get to what you see here. Ought to be good enough.
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My comment about seeing oil pumps in worse condition than this one was based on automotive engine oil pumps. Have seen quite a few of those. Same basic idea, this is the first one of these pump units I have had my hands or eyes on. Doesn't appear to be terribly complicated.
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They are pretty simple.
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I figured out an easy solution for the pitted rod of my lift cylinder. I bought a new piston/rod end plug assembly from Bolens Parts and Supplies, along with the replacement return spring and a shaft seal for the pump unit. I was searching their site and found the new rod piston assembly listed, and on sale. So, I bought it. Problem solved. Had been cruising eBay for a good used cylinder, but none listed right now. Probably will see a couple-three pop up soon. A few suggestions had been made about getting a piece of chromed rod possibly from an old shock absorber or strut assembly and cutting and threading it to work for a replacement rod. If you could find one that was the exact diameter as what you were trying to replace, that idea would probably work quite well. Being as I have no metal lathe and would have to pay a shop to do it, I bypassed that idea for the present. So this new rod piston I have on order is the newer style thats 5/8" diameter. I have the original cylinder that was on my H14 tractor with the same size rod, but was pitted and seeping oil. I had replaced that cylinder last Fall with a good used cylinder I found on eBay. I decided to disassemble both cylinders and see what the differences are between the older style 1/2" rod type and the newer 5/8" rod type. I used 2 pieces of hardwood board to clamp the rods in the vise very tightly and using a short punch that fit the bore of the clevis I was able to rap that with a small hammer and break the threads loose. It's a right-hand thread so I went lefty-loosie and the clevis screwed right off. I wasn't sure exactly what method to try to unthread the pistons from the rods without marring them. I'm thinking that the pistons could be held tight between the hard wood boards and the old rods gripped with Vise-grips or a small pipe wrench to unthread them. It would ruin the rods but they are rust pitted and not serviceable still anyway. Kind of a so-what deal I guess. It appears that the pistons, cylinders, end plug with the mounting lug and the clevis are the same for both versions of the cylinder. The 5/8" rod is necked down and has the same thread size on the ends as the 1/2" rod. And the end plugs where the rod comes through are sized for the respective diameter rod the cylinder used naturally. I cut a slot in a piece of 3/8" diameter rod I happen to have lying close by and then cut a strip of Scotch-Brite pad to fashion a polishing tool of sorts. I ran it with a drill and it polished up the bore of the cylinders very nicely. The bores of both cylinders look good, but I might give the nod to the older one that originally had the 1/2" rod. The new pieces will fit right in, and I will have a newer style cylinder with 5/8" rod. Or at least that's my grand plan right now. I think it will all be good.
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Nice up grade on the cylinder. It will be just a bit quicker on the rod side and bit less power with the bigger rod.
On your pump, you may have done more harm than good with the sanding. When sanding like that you always take more off the outside (tips of the teeth) than inside. If you have a mic you can measure that. The end plate will be the same but will matter less in this case. That pump probably started life with an side clearance of less than .002" . Meaning the gear set is .002" less in thickness than the pump housing depth. It doesn't take much extra clearance on a tiny gear set like that to cause excessive bypassing.

Hopefully the pump will still meet the demands of the lift you need.
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The only thing I sanded was the plate. Never mentioned sanding the gears. 😉
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I understand about side clearance in the relationship of the gears to the housing and end plate. The more clearance there is the more oil will bypass and the less pressure the pump will produce. This might not be very high tech here, but I just happened to have some Plastigauge on had so I did a quick check. This picture is one of several, and they all showed me about the same thing. I come up with approx. a hair over .002 for side clearance. I believe the pump will perform just fine for how I intend to use it. I suppose I could get out the mics, verniers and do some serious measuring, but really don't think it necessary. Just my 3 cents!
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Sorry, I misread your post, which after rereading was pretty clear.😞

At .002" you will be good. Oh, and clever use of a plasti-gauge.

In twenty eights years of repairing and rebuilding hydraulic pumps and motors of all kinds I've seen all kinds of failures. "Polishing" parts was a common cause of failure in attempted home repairs. But on the other hand I'm a big fan of do-it-yourselfers and it's good to see guys like you and others on a site like this using and sharing their skills and knowledge.
Cheers and happy hydraulic lifting.
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Hey, no problem here. No offence taken at all! I tend to miss things occasionally when I read too. Sometimes I have to read things 2-3 times before I "get it" :unsure: Nice to know we have a member on hand with hydraulic experience. I'm sure I can come up with a few questions for you in the future. Yeah, this lift system will most likely end up on my mutt 1254 tractor. And it will see some occasional utility work. Won't ever see much heavy, daily usage. I do use my GTs for work around the property, but in reality, they are pretty much just "big boys toys" ;)
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You mentioned that there will be a bit less power on the rod side of the piston. I surmise that that would be because of less surface area of the face of the piston that pressure will be applied to. Because of the larger diameter of the 5/8" rod. Makes sense. Just for grins I did some quick , down and dirty measuring. With the piston and 1/2" rod I get about .500 from the edge of piston to the rod and on the piston with 5/8" rod I get about .480. The ends of the 5/8" rod are tapered down and threaded the same as the 1/2" rod. I don't know if my photographic attempts show it very well though. So, there is a small difference between the two piston rod assemblies. And of course, there will be a bit less volume of oil inside the cylinder with the larger diameter rod, so I surmise that's why you say it will move faster than when under pressure from the closed end. Am I on track here? Just making some guesses based on what I think I know. :unsure: Please straighten me out on this if I'm wrong!!
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