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Diesel Nut!
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Well, i've decided it's about time my diesel-powered 1050 became a worker more than a looker. I want to build a loader for it. Yea I know that hydro's are better for a loader, the tractor may get combined with an H-16 soon anyways. So, i'm thinking of using the hydrualics off of an old school Fisher hour-mount plow. Belt drive pump/resivoir, plow tilt cylinders (Single acting) as lift cylinders, and modify the valve to accomadate a single large frame lift cylinder for the bucket. Now, 36" bucket? 42"? 2" square tube for arms and uprights too much? 1 3/4" C-chanel better idea? Any and all help is much appreciated!!
 

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Rectangle tubing would be stronger for lifting. Square tubing might bend .as for the bucket, hmmm maybe 38 or 40 inch?
 

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Tractorholic
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I would go with the 42" bucket , my PK only has a 36" and the tread width is almost that in the front and the rear is bigger , it make it hard to get close to the sides on some jobs . Good Luck with your project !
 

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Our Manuals Section has some info on FEL building. As far as the bucket goes, I would go with a 48" wide but very shallow depth bucket. My 1970s era Ford 4500 and Ford 2000 tractors have front loaders with narrow (6') buckets. They are okay most of the time. In the later 70s Ford went to 8' wide buckets. The 8' is wider than the wheels and much easier to use when grading. Good Luck, Rick
 

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I have a 1054 and a 38" mower deck clears a path wider than the rear wheels. I would think your 1050 would be the same width unless you have bigger than original sized tires on it. It depends on how you plan to use it, but I think 40 to 42 inches would be about right if you plan to move dirt, gravel and similar materials with it. You could go a bit wider if it is just for moving snow. You don't want to go too big on the bucket size with no power steering. Just remember to get the tractor in motion before you start to turn, it is much easier on you and the steering components than trying to turn the wheel while sitting still.

Jim
 
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