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A few days back I changed the ATF in my MF-14 (Peerless #2504 transaxle). I received some great feedback from guys about fluid type, dipstick length and what to do while fill the transaxle with 5 quarts of ATF (slow go was the report). Well, I decided to "help" the process along so I rigged up a pump system to get the fluid in faster [http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/20461-ntm-massey-mf-14-1974/?p=277479]. I worked out the bugs and now have a fairly straight forward approach to filling the transaxle again next year when it comes time to change the fluid.

Well, thanks to KennyP I got to thinking about adding a vent to the transaxle which would allow for quick and easy filling.....no need to "burp" the fill tube while pouring the ATF. KennyP states that on his Ford and FF tractors (both use the very same transaxle as my Massey does) the fill hole is on the back of the transaxle and the vent is on the top (where my fill tube on the Massey screws into the transaxle). [http://gardentractortalk.com/forums/topic/20461-ntm-massey-mf-14-1974/page-9#entry278003] KennyP also indicated that his tractors don't require a dipstick because you just fill till it starts overflowing.

I took a gander at my machine and found the "hole" with threaded plug that KennyP uses to fill his transaxle and this got me thinking.........what are the pros and cons of adding a tube that would come up under the seat that could be used to "vent" the transaxle while filling the ATF? As long as I had a vent, with my pump system, I could get 5 quarts of ATF in my transaxle probably in under a minute.

QUESTIONS

1) Has anyone added a "vent" to their Peerless #2504 transaxle?

2) Is there a reason Massey didn't add a "vent"?

3) Is there a reason NOT to add a "vent"?

Here are a few pics of the lower fill hole on the back of my transaxle and up top where I'm thinking of bringing the "vent" tube:

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Oh and kudos to the person who can count high enough to figure out how many times I use the word "transaxle" in this post. I think I shattered the record. :bigrofl:
 

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On the JD 300 series the hydro is vented using a fuel filter in line with a tube from the top of the rear end. In the case of the JD the tube comes out of the top and into the fuel filter, which has a small hole in the outside case to vent pressure in the system, then out the other end of the filter and down to a port at the base of the fill tube. The tubing is transparent and the bottom section acts as a gauge for fluid level. In your case you could simply run the tubing to a fuel filter and block the exit end leaving a small hole for a vent. It doesn't take much, 1/16" diameter will do. This will prevent moisture from getting into the system and plastic fuel filters are cheap and easy to find. In the picture you can see the black tube coming out of the top of the rear end, the fuel filter tie wrapped to the underside of the frame and the transparent tubing leaving the filter and going just behind the slot in the frame where you can see the level of the fluid. The nut at the top of the fill tube is just visible on the right side of the rear end.

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AHA! You found the other plug. Getting that out and something else in there could be fun. But it would help in getting the air out of the system as you fill. It is 3/8" iron pipe thread. Maybe you could use a brass 90 and come out of it with a fitting for a small tube for venting? Maybe use the fuel filter idea for sanitary reasons?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
AHA! You found the other plug. Getting that out and something else in there could be fun. But it would help in getting the air out of the system as you fill. It is 3/8" iron pipe thread. Maybe you could use a brass 90 and come out of it with a fitting for a small tube for venting? Maybe use the fuel filter idea for sanitary reasons?
Kenny....

  1. How many quarts of ATF does your FF or Ford take?
  2. When you want to test levels of fluid you open the rear port and add until ATF overflows, right?
  3. Any chance you could get an up close pic of the "vent" or could you describe in more detail what type of fitting is used coming out of the "vent" hole?

Thanks.
 

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Kenny....

  1. How many quarts of ATF does your FF or Ford take?
  2. When you want to test levels of fluid you open the rear port and add until ATF overflows, right?
  3. Any chance you could get an up close pic of the "vent" or could you describe in more detail what type of fitting is used coming out of the "vent" hole?

Thanks.
1. These have the Eaton 11 hydro, so they do not use ATF. I use the "Universal Hydraulic & Transmission Fluid". 7-1/2 to 8 quarts.

2. On the Ford, yes. The FF has a clear tube you see the level in,

3. The Ford has a 'special' fitting screwed into the upper vent hole. The FF has an adapter fitting going from the 3/8" IPT to 1/4" hose screwed into it. I don't have pics of the Ford fitting. Here is one of the back of the FF.

[sharedmedia=core:attachments:55845]

My fill hole is the one you have behind the rear plate. The vent hole is the on your dipstick goes into.
 
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After rolling this idea around in my head a bit, Kenny and Brian, you've got me to thinking (a dangerous proposition sometimes). Instead of adding a vent tube why not add a new fill tube and use the current fill tube as the vent.

By creating a new fill tube and re-purposing the current fill tube as the vent I would:

  1. eliminate the need for a dip stick as I would be using clear tubing and I could check levels by simply looking. I'd have a direct view of the fill tube if I drilled one small hole in the back plate of the tractor.
  2. eliminate the issue of pushing air through ATF, as the lower port on the back is at or just below the fluid level when the system is at the "full" line.
  3. be able to create a "sealed" system for "pumping" the ATF into the transaxle.

Parts List

Brass 90 X 1

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Brass barb fitting (one female and one male)

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Vinyl tubing X 12"

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Brass cap (or plug depending on how you want to terminate your fill line) X 1

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Since my system would be sealed I'm not sure I'll need the fuel filter. See any inherent flaws in the design or problems my approach might create down the road?
 

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Basically, you are creating what the FF already has for a fill tube. The one exception is the FF has a pipe coupling and plug screwed into the top hose fitting. I have a funnel that 'screws' in to that coupling. It is just the right size that I can get it in a couple threads to hold it there. But you should be able to fill it pretty easily that way. I doubt you would see fluid in the tube, though. With the brass 90 & hose adapter screwed onto it, you will be a couple inches above the fill hole before the clear tube starts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, I have the supplies....now for the install.

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I'm going to have to drain the transaxle as the ATF level is above the lower port...or at least ATF started oozing out today when I tried taking the plug out. Hey, on the bright side I'll get to see how my pumping system works. :thumbs:
 

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There should be a very small hex head set screw screwed into the trans axle in front of the filling tube. Just take a allen wrench and screw it out when you want to fill your rear. I have a massey 16 and thats how ive done it and it works like a charm. In the picture you will see its to the left of the fill tube, that little black spot. Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Gas Automotive lighting
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
There should be a very small hex head set screw screwed into the trans axle in front of the filling tube. Just take a allen wrench and screw it out when you want to fill your rear. I have a massey 16 and thats how ive done it and it works like a charm. In the picture you will see its to the left of the fill tube, that little black spot.
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I'll take a look tonight and give you a shout when I find the set screw. Boy will this simplify things. Thanks.
 
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Yea I had the same problem of letting the system burp and I knew there had to be a better way. Theres no way there wouldn't have been a natural vent for these its too much of a pain without using the vent.
 

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There should be a very small hex head set screw screwed into the trans axle in front of the filling tube. Just take a allen wrench and screw it out when you want to fill your rear. I have a massey 16 and thats how ive done it and it works like a charm. In the picture you will see its to the left of the fill tube, that little black spot.
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IMG_1889.JPG
Thanks! Glad someone could come to the rescue on these. They might be the same rear as mine, but subtle differences can show up.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There should be a very small hex head set screw screwed into the trans axle in front of the filling tube. Just take a allen wrench and screw it out when you want to fill your rear. I have a massey 16 and thats how ive done it and it works like a charm. In the picture you will see its to the left of the fill tube, that little black spot.
attachicon.gif
IMG_1889.JPG
Oh, you mean this set screw? Thanks to you I will be heading back to Lowes to return my brass fittings and pocketing a few bucks. This makes perfect sense and it's one more example of how difficult we can make things when there's a simple solution right in front of us. Thanks a ton for weighing in.

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Glad you found it. I need to look on the FF the next time I have the gas tank out.
 
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Just a thought here but is the plug on the side of the transaxle a LEVEL indicator?

Can you remove the plug,

fill the transaxle from the top until fluid comes out the side plug,

put the plug back in and the transaxle is full to the right level. ???
 
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I don't believe that set screw is for anything else but to be sure I just threaded it back in where it was and I never moved te tractor any while refilling but I truly believe that is for venting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I don't believe that set screw is for anything else but to be sure I just threaded it back in where it was and I never moved te tractor any while refilling but I truly believe that is for venting.
mauser, I did some digging and this is what I've come up with thus far. The set screw appears to be connected with the operation of the shift rod; set screw rests atop a shifter fork spring which sits atop a steel ball.

See #20, #21, #22 in diagram on page 1 of the .pdf below.

View attachment 60105

#20 792004 Steel Ball
#21 792068 Set Screw, 1/4-20 x 1/2"
#22 792003 Shifter Fork Spring

Then take a look at page 81of the .pdf below for a better look at the purpose of the set screw. The instructions say, "To remove the shifter rod and fork, the set screw, spring and ball should be removed at the outside of the case."

View attachment 60109

Now I'm in a quandary. Based on the above information it would appear that if I pump ATF into the system at a high rate of speed I just might blow the spring and steel ball right out of that hole. Back to the drawing board it would appear. Thoughts?
 
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