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Don't know if I will need it but I finally got the snow blower mounted on the tractor. My son had been using the tractor to mow with. Also got the DA 916 into the shed after we rearranged things. Also got the front axle put back together so it will steer now. Most of this was done in the rain.
 

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I've still got about a pile of work ahead of me but the steering linkage for my second white 1855 is all patched up. It came as a parts tractor but I have been collecting parts to put it back together. Ready to install in the morning so it can roll around as I need it to.
 

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Got my cub cadet tractor back into a rolling chassis today. The motor is done and now I've got a few parts to get. I've only got a little over a month to have it ready for the first pull of the season. This one is just going to get me through this year. I'm going to get a Massey Ferguson 12 and make my puller for next year.
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Larrryd
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Changed the weights on back of tractor. Removed barbell weights 100lbs and replaced with 207 lbs brake rotors. Now have 207 lbs on back, 60 lbs wsf in ea tire and 40 lbs barbell on ea wheel plus my 218 lba total 518 approx, plus my weight hitch is 25 lbs.

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I am new to the site and have a Homelite T16 Garden Tractor. After looking around without success to see if anyone had one with a Frontend Loader I decided to put one on mine. I purchased 2 destroyed GT16 which one had a Sears Loader built by Kwikway on it. I removed the loader and repainted it and put all new Hydraulic Hoses on it and attached it to my Homelite. Had to make a couple mounts that were different but the things works great. Still curious why I couldn't find any others and if there is a reason for that. Here are some pictures.
Looks nice. Simplicity did not offer a loader on these tractors as they had for the pre-1971 garden tractors. It may in part have been because by this time they were offering the "powermax" series of tractors which were much larger and built much heavier and more appropriate to mount a loader to. These Simplicity 3300 series up to 7000/7100/Sovereign Series tractors require extra bracing for the subframe to tie in with the sideplates between the BGB and the transaxle or at least to the rear hitch area in some way to spread the load across the length of the tractor. These tractors' frame is bolted to the bevel gear box with four bolts. This is a stress point and weak point when mounting a loader. I would recommend making a new subframe or adding to it to spread the load out.
 

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I am new to the site and have a Homelite T16 Garden Tractor. After looking around without success to see if anyone had one with a Frontend Loader I decided to put one on mine. I purchased 2 destroyed GT16 which one had a Sears Loader built by Kwikway on it. I removed the loader and repainted it and put all new Hydraulic Hoses on it and attached it to my Homelite. Had to make a couple mounts that were different but the things works great. Still curious why I couldn't find any others and if there is a reason for that. Here are some pictures.
Here is how the subrames were designed for the pre-1971 tractors. This system would probably interfere with the running boards on newer machines. I have a '69 AC B-210 with an L-112 loader on it. Make sure the woodruff keys are not worn on where your right hand differential is attached to the axle tube. If it gets slop it can increase the likelihood of cracking the axle tube. Using a loader may put greater stress on the differential and axle tube.
 

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Had to replace the mower blades on the JD 265. I caught a water main valve cover with it. Destroyed that blade. Luckily the 316 deck had the same blades and they were near new.

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Pulled my Bolens 1000 out of storage on May 3.... Have bought a TR-10D to put in it. Rebuilding clutch and replacing driveshaft bearings - waiting on the mailman for the parts.
Doing rust removal with a cup brush on all the frame... And today laid trial coat of brown to see how I like the color... Getting things done, in between rains ... I'm an actual shade tree mechanic! I'm working outside with my Bolens sitting on my flatbed utility trailer. My shade tree has my hoist up in the first fork.... Works well
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Here is how the subrames were designed for the pre-1971 tractors. This system would probably interfere with the running boards on newer machines. I have a '69 AC B-210 with an L-112 loader on it. Make sure the woodruff keys are not worn on where your right hand differential is attached to the axle tube. If it gets slop it can increase the likelihood of cracking the axle tube. Using a loader may put greater stress on the differential and axle tube.
I have been using it and I do see why you said that the front half and rear half of the tractor bolting together on the BGB was a weak point. Found most of the Bolts loose. I will have to figure out a way to mount the front frame directly to the rear frame incase using the loader is what made the bolts come loose. I have a quick question the hydraulic pump was the original 1974 pump with a 7/16" shaft and it broke today how do I find out what PSI and GPM I need to replace it? I figured I would go to a 1/2" shaft since I can't find a 7/16" one.
 

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Tractorholic
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Was using the Kubota all day yesterday and as it was getting late and wanting to get a few more cinder blocks moved I saw the LF tire flat . All right at least it was the tire that was needing air every few days , thinking whatever was the problem was it just got worse . Nope a nail sticking through it , dismounted and patched that hole , I couldn't find any other spots without dunking the tube but I was in a hurry , remounted and started to air ip up , and uo and up crap I pinched the tube :wallbanging: dismount it again , 1 spot , NO 2 spots NO 3 spots NO 4 places in a group :wallbanging: :wallbanging: at least one of my large patches covered all .
 

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andweknow.com
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i stripped paint off part of it and put tons of stuff to get for it in the cart on amazon and ebay
 
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