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Finally had a chance to take my MF1655 for a run after sitting for over a week. Low and behold , I think I found my problem with losing prime while sittingh around. The vacuum hose from the engine block to fuel pump was quite loose. Put a hose clamp on it and now gas is right there. She took right off and I did some mowing and clearing brush at thye lower end of our place. Also charges good with the new regulator so very happy. Have a great day and stay safe. Will try to put up some shots of her asap.
 

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Been taking the electric start Craftsman I just bought apart lately, fixing little things that bother me that I don't like. Got the fenders off as there was only 2 blots holding them on instead of 3 on each side, and seat off it so far as I want to repaint the seat bracket because it is red and the rest of the tractor is yellow and white. Also fixed the foot rest pedal because it was loose, I had to find a 2 inch spacer to fit that as well. Pictures to hopefully come soon.
 

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I replaced a broken tie rod end on my 129.
Before:

D2134A69-C4B9-4EE9-B7C9-5966B5E4D4CA.jpeg 887D1CDC-E065-41D4-88F0-0151C8A25DA1.jpeg

After:

FBB209E0-DC9B-4159-A360-51E0CEDE4A01.jpeg 833CE6B7-71D7-4C25-B851-7287C2FDF3DC.jpeg

All ready to cut grass tomorrow!
 

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Been taking the electric start Craftsman I just bought apart lately, fixing little things that bother me that I don't like. Got the fenders off as there was only 2 blots holding them on instead of 3 on each side, and seat off it so far as I want to repaint the seat bracket because it is red and the rest of the tractor is yellow and white. Also fixed the foot rest pedal because it was loose, I had to find a 2 inch spacer to fit that as well. Pictures to hopefully come soon.
Here are some pictures to follow up my post, more to come soon.......
 

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Worked on the '74 JD 112 w/electric lift. Was having an issue with it not going back down. Thought it might be a solenoid, but found it to be a bad connection at the solenoid. Had to take the battery and tray out to get to the mess. This also has a 30A circuit breaker for each solenoid.

DSCN5270.JPG

In the pic above, the two solenoids are at the top. The small wire(yellow) that plugs into the front on the LH one was loose fitting and corroded some. Cleaned that up and it works fine.
 

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took apart the tranny on my jacobsen again. also just got a sandblaster so i can get paint off way easier
 
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Well technically yesterday i put the foot rests back on the Penncraft... i need to tighten the bolts that hold it on though because i cant put my weight on the footrests. Next tuesday ill finish it. Either way i got the penncraft body off, sprocket key replaced, drive chain soaked and cleaned, put on right way, Then got the engine started after a year. Alot of work but shes all ready! gonna be working and pulling stuff! This winter ill be pulling some (medium) sized logs!
 

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Pulled my Bolens 1000 out of storage on May 3.... Have bought a TR-10D to put in it. Rebuilding clutch and replacing driveshaft bearings - waiting on the mailman for the parts.
Doing rust removal with a cup brush on all the frame... And today laid trial coat of brown to see how I like the color... Getting things done, in between rains ... I'm an actual shade tree mechanic! I'm working outside with my Bolens sitting on my flatbed utility trailer. My shade tree has my hoist up in the first fork.... Works well
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Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Now thats heavy duty! :rocker:
 
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pics of project
 

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I got my 54" (2 way hydraulic) snowblade onto my JD 318, and it works perfectly with enough downward pressure to lift the front wheels off the ground, and with enough upward pressure to the blade about 12"-14" off the ground.

I have a rear lift cylinder off of an old 316 that I will try to fabricate the blade angle brackets needed to mount the cylinder, and make my blade into a (4 way hydraulic) unit. My only expense should be getting new hydraulic lines to attach it.
 

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Yesterday I started my penny's and the bolts that hold the pull start assembly on the shroud rattled loose and made terrible noises of the bolts hitting the flywheel fins. Re tightened them. They should hold. I hope...

Then the fuel line twisted in half when I was taking off the shroud. Got 4 feet of replacement line, cut it to right size, and replaced the line. The old line had cracks in it and was letting air in the line. Once replaced I started it up and it ran really good surprisingly. No more misfires and stalls, then coming back on. Did really good.

Also put some electrical tape over a chewed part of the coil wire that had no insulation.

The throttle/choke lever broke where the cable sits and will need a way to attach the cable to the tab. I will buy some JB weld and "weld" it to the other side of the tab. I also will put a teeny tiny dab of it on the 4 bolts that rattled loose before. Just so they will be good and tight.

I gotta get used to this tractor. Vibrates a lot! I'm used to a fancy quiet comfortable tractor. It scares the #### outta me when it's super nice and silent outside and I give her a pull and it's so loud! Next Tuesday I will apply the JB weld on the pull start assembly bolts and on the cable. Yesterday I applied a small amount of sea foam to the gas and I will be waiting to run it through on Tuesday. Over this thanksgiving I may be able to do it if I have time.

I recently bought a motorized bicycle kit and I've assembled the engine and carb. Now it's just to get the bike, assemble the sprocket, and chain and tensioner. And of course put the motor on...

Thanks for reading!
 

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I got my 54" (2 way hydraulic) snowblade onto my JD 318, and it works perfectly with enough downward pressure to lift the front wheels off the ground, and with enough upward pressure to the blade about 12"-14" off the ground.

I have a rear lift cylinder off of an old 316 that I will try to fabricate the blade angle brackets needed to mount the cylinder, and make my blade into a (4 way hydraulic) unit. My only expense should be getting new hydraulic lines to attach it.
If you need some measurements, let me know! I just went through this with my blade!
 
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Last week one day I took my Sears for a ride out our road. It was running good, then suddenly died like it was out of gas. :wallbanging: It was getting dark, but from what I could see there was gas in the tank. :wtf: Figured maybe it picked up a piece of dirt in the carburetor or something, so I walked back home to get my truck and trailer, and towed it home. I finally got a chance to "fix" it today. I thought I better double check to make sure it has enough gas before I go taking the carb off. Yep you guessed it, not enough. :poke: Put some in and it starred right up. Apparently these things need gas to run, who would have though? :smilewink:
 

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Now planning to change the oil in my penny's to 5-w30. Because its getting colder, and ill be using it alot..
 
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Worked on the Speedex s18 this weekend. got the Briggs swapped out for a 10 hp Kohler.

Created a battery tray, small dash, relocated the gas tank, routed the choke and throttle cables ,and wired everything. Give her a shot of carb cleaner and she fired right off. YEAH!!

Tomorrow I hope to pickup a pulley and a belt, and a breather gasket. Haven't decided what to do with the exhaust. Leaning towards a short stack.

Should be driving it in a few days!
 

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Changed the hydrostatic transmission oil in my Kubota G5200 and put a new filter on. The old oil came out looking clean, which was a good sign that all the internals are fine. Checked the pickup strainer on the side of the diff and found a few flecks of something clinging to it, but otherwise no problems. I'm now running Atlantic HY-Lube HT 68 in there, which is at least the right viscosity as far as I can tell.

Now some people out there will try to lecture you on why you should only use Kubota's own specially formulated oil, but as far as I'm aware you'll generally be okay as long as you use an oil with the right viscosity that is intended for your application. So I just went with what I could find at a good price that ticked those boxes.
 

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Changed the hydrostatic transmission oil in my Kubota G5200 and put a new filter on. The old oil came out looking clean, which was a good sign that all the internals are fine. Checked the pickup strainer on the side of the diff and found a few flecks of something clinging to it, but otherwise no problems. I'm now running Atlantic HY-Lube HT 68 in there, which is at least the right viscosity as far as I can tell.

Now some people out there will try to lecture you on why you should only use Kubota's own specially formulated oil, but as far as I'm aware you'll generally be okay as long as you use an oil with the right viscosity that is intended for your application. So I just went with what I could find at a good price that ticked those boxes.
Some oil is better than no oil! :thumbs:
 
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