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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bolens 1666. Replaced the engine. Was running fine, test drive and all. Went to use it and again it ran fine for about 75'. Then it started an intermittent cut out. Run - cut out-run-cut out. Died when I idled it down at the shop. Circuit breaker was clicking. Took everything out of the circuit. No power to anything except the ignition switch. One safety switch on the brake pedal and that is good. Unplug the battery terminal on the regulator and the short is gone. Tried another regulator. Same thing. Got a new one - replacement numbers match up. It does the same thing - dead short with ignition switch in the run position. Amp meter and breaker do not show a short out of the circuit. No draw on the batter between battery post and started solenoid terminal. Wires all look good, even stripped the outer housing off so I could get a good look at them. Moved them all around. Every time I hook up the B+ terminal at the regulator the breaker kicks out and back on, out and back on with switch in run position. About ready to pull my hair out on this one. Need some solid advise on where to go or what to do from here.
 

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Wire on wrong terminal of regulator or you have 2 bad Regs.
 
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You could have a regulator that is not grounded properly - just a suggestion. Most three terminal regulators use the mounting bolt to complete the circuit to ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Can dirt and crud build up in the flywheel over the years cause a short between the flywheel and the alternator? Unplugged the alternator and the short was gone ? Checked the two yellow wires, one at a time to ground. Both showed a short. Pulled the flywheel and it was full of crud, dirt and what have you.. Cleaned it out good, blew the alternator out and checked again. Tested open between each wire and ground. OK Good alternator as it was putting out 27.9 VAC when first started. Pushed, pulled and bent the wires ever which way and no change in the reading, showed open. Put the flywheel back on. Checked the two alternator wires again. Both showed open. Only thing that changed from the time I checked the alternator and found the short and the time I had it back together is the dirt and crud was removed from the flywheel. Will set it back in and test run it before a full install is done.
 

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I would look at the wires that lead to the stator. Especially where they pass through the case. That's not to say that there is not a short in the stator itself.
 

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You could try heating up the stator with a hair drier or heat gun if you still have the flywheel off and see if any readings change - it could be a short that is showing up when things get warm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Flywheel is on to check for the short between the stator and flywheel but it can come off real easy. I have the stator out of the blown engine that I can put in also. Not to bad to pull the engine on this one other than the drive shaft but would just as soon have it right when it goes back in again. Will try a hair dryer and see what happens. May just put the other one it as the sleeve is in better condition on that one. Will sleep on it as the engine is hanging on the chain hoist now. Thanks for all the good suggestions. Much appreciated.
 
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Paulgo, I am 90% sure your were right. An intermittent short in the ignition switch. Took a long time to find it and burned up another regulator in the process. Thanks to my good friend at O'Reillys will get it covered under warranty as they could not tell me for sure which terminal was the B+. I checked the wiring as it was hooked up several times. Everything went fine. Started the engine to check the fuel pump when installed and everything was fine. Put an hour meter in and when I turned the key to the run position the needle flickered to the discharge side then peg to discharge. Shut it off. Checked wiring again. All OK. Turned the switch to run. OK. Went to start and nothing. Brake was engaged so that switch was closed. Tried it again. Nothing. Unplugged the switch and plugged in another one. Worked good. Went back to the original switch. Turned to run and it pegged the needle on discharge and smoke came out of the switch. Regulator has brown sticky stuff around the bottom edge. Unplugged it and installed the switch I had on hand. Work fine but the regulator was fried. Put the deck under it and went to try it out. Ran OK but not great. Carb needs cleaned and the hydro needs the filter changed. One blade is cutting a little high so need to work on that but at least I think I finally found where the shorting was coming from. Was beginning to think that nothing above a XL Bolens was going to cooperate with me. Had a large frame with an S14D I never did get spark to so junked it out. Was thinking this one was going to end up the same way.
 

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Hopefully it is now ready to be a worker for you! Napa 1410 hydro filter, same as wix 51410, when you're ready. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hopefully it is now ready to be a worker for you! Napa 1410 hydro filter, same as wix 51410, when you're ready. :)
Thanks and I hope your right again. I don't use NAPA filters unless I have to. Can get Baldwin filters for less at regular price than NAPA Gold when on sale. Baldwin filters are just as good or better than NAPA. Local NAPA is overpriced on everything.
 
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