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After setting static timing (points set to .020) looking at the timing mark with a timing light, it seems to jump around quite a bit even though the engine sounds smooth. Is it possible the point/condenser is faulty? Or maybe the coil?

Thanks,

Jeff
 

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Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict
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32,409 Posts
Long as she sounds smooth, you're likely fine. The strobe may show some jumping, but as long as the majority of the time it shows on the mark you should be ok.
 

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Old, but not dead -- yet!
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3,263 Posts
jeffsross said:
After setting static timing (points set to .020) looking at the timing mark with a timing light, it seems to jump around quite a bit even though the engine sounds smooth. Is it possible the point/condenser is faulty? Or maybe the coil?

Thanks,

Jeff
In our shop, we NEVER set points on the Wisconsin S7D, S8D, TR-10D, or TRA-10D engines with a feeler gauge! ...We always used a continuity tester (light, buzzer, or meter). .....In fact, this was Wisconsin's preferred method.

Disconnect the wires going to the ignition points terminal on the outside of the breaker box. .....Rotate the engine on the compression stroke until the timing mark on the flywheel lines up with the pointer on the shroud. .....(If you overshoot the mark, turn the engine backward 1/2 turn, then SLOWLY rotate forward until the timing mark lines up EXACTLY with the pointer.)

Connect a continuity tester between the ignition point terminal and ground. .......Without turning the engine, adjust the point setting until an open circuit is indicated (light goes out, buzzer silences, or meter goes to infinity).

The ignition coil fires when the points OPEN. ......Rotate the engine backwards, and then forward to re-check that the points open EXACTLY when the timing marks line up.

.....Re-adjust the points if necessary, as the adjustment is very sensitive, and will change as the point clamping screw is tightened.

I can do the procedure in less time than it took me to type this.
 

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Bolensholic
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I'll confirm Bruces method is the way to go.
I started out doing the feeler gage method that always done...
Then shortly before I got to the point of smashing something, I read the manual again.
Grabbed my test light, and a few minutes later it was done...
It was much easier and accurate to do with the limited space in the box on the wisconson.
 
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