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Ethanol-Free Fuel

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4.9K views 29 replies 17 participants last post by  Utah Smitty  
#1 ·
Below is an artificial I read recently about Ethanol-free fuel, take it for what its worth, everyone has a different opinion. If you find any good in it o.k., if not no sleep lost.

Dick

USE ETHANOL-FREE FUEL IN YOUR SMALL ENGINES

Guest Article for the Tallahassee Democrat

Photo by Deborah Lawson

July 19, 2013, Release for Tallahassee Democrat

By Deborah Lawson

Head-Shot2.jpg

As seems to be the case with many things in this fast paced world, often politics and public relations sound bites prevail over science and factual information. We are so excited to find solutions that we fail to take the time to accumulate evidence over time. The result is public policy based being made before results of the policy are completely understood. I believe this was the case with the Federal Renewable Fuel Standards Act which went into effect in 2007 and requires increasing amounts of ethanol to be mixed with the gasoline supply, currently 10 percent. In 2008 the Florida Legislature followed suit, passing a requirement that gasoline sold in Florida contain 10 percent alternative "blended" fuels. This year the Florida Legislature repealed the Florida requirement, but we still have to deal with the Federal mandate.

The Environmental Protection Agency has now approved gasoline with 15 percent ethanol (E15) for use in cars year 2001 or newer, yet it prohibits its use in mowers and other power equipment, stating it may cause damage. A Department of Energy study found that E15 caused hotter operating temperatures, erratic running, and engine-part failure. The reality is, even gas with the usual 10 percent ethanol (E10) is causing premature repairs and small engine failures nationwide.

Even for the most environmentally green individual, the evidence is in and the damage caused by ethanol to mowers, blowers, chain saws, generators, marine and other small engines is extensive. Fuel stabilizers were initially thought to help, but the bottom line is - they're just not enough!

What happens when you use E10 in your small two-cycle engine? The ethanol creates a chain reaction of events that end up clogging valves and rusting out small metal parts, especially carburetors. The ethanol actually attracts moisture and causes a quicker deterioration of the fuel as well as corrosion. In addition, the alcohol actually dissipates the oil you mix with the fuel which is intended to lubricate the small engine, but instead the oil is being pushed away and is not lubricating the engine.

All of this creates a gummy residue called shellack that clogs filters and hoses. The engine ends up starving for gas because it's stopped up with the gel created when the shellack breaks down.

Another interesting phenomenon, Asian Ambrosia beetles are attracted to ethanol. It is actually being utilized as bait where infestations have occurred. Recently our gas tank on our mower had to be replaced because the beetles had eaten pin holes in it to get to the ethanol. Who'd have thought….?

Bottom line, IT IS worth taking the extra time and spending a little more money to fill your gas cans with ethanol-free gasoline for use in your two-cycle engines. Look for gas stations that sell marine fuel. Some Tallahassee area stations include Maxwell's BP at Mahan and Chaires, Eli Roberts on Lake Bradford Road, and the Shell station on the north side of West Tennessee Street near ABC Liquors. If you only use a small amount, ethanol-free fuel can be purchased in quart cans at places like Tractor Supply and most lawn equipment stores, but it's an expensive way to buy it.
 
G
#6 ·
Not sure I will buy into that article at all. I have been running 87 octane E-10 in all of my small equipment and have not had to deal with any of the problems discussed in that article. I have not had a fuel system problem as of yet.
Weather you buy into or not, facts are facts and they support the article, Perhaps a little more research on your part will enlighten your perspective.
 
#7 · (Edited by Moderator)
Trust me when I say the problems are out there. I have a nephew who owns an equipment dealership. I says they can tell immediately after opening a carburetor if it has had ethanol in it. I rebuilt the carburetor on a log splitter engine less than a year ago. It was one of the older Briggs engines and he brought it back and asked if I could get it running again. He runs ethanol in everything. You cannot believe the corrosion in that carburetor after such a short time. It didn't stop there either. The metal tank had to be cleaned and fuel filter changed again.

You see something like this personally and it makes a believer out of you. Gas engines are heat machines that convert BTU's into mechanical force. The less BTU's the less work the engine can do. Ethanol has less BTU's than gasoline so you have to burn more to get the same work done or go slower. You can argue all you want but that's a fact and there is no getting around it.
 
#10 ·
I reckon the proof is in the puddin. Like I said I have not had a fuel related issue that I can ever remember since the E-10 hit New York.
10-4 on that! I've not had any problems ether. I would have to haul 4 5gal. cans 140 miles roundtrip to someplace in the Capitol Region according to the last alky free location website I looked at. How would that save my equipment. Save the equipment and burn down the car making fuel runs. I have to "dance with the gal that brung me".

OLDER engines, I agree totally. The crappy zinc alloy based carbs and cast iron fuel system parts and rubber do not like the water that comes with the alky one bit. But, on the same idea, if you keep your fuel freshly rotated, stabilized and don't expect it to last 2 years in the tank or can, it can be done. I'm doin' it.

I totally believe that some who are having trouble with fuel today are victims to "regional supply" and the various different "blends" that we're subject to all over the country from government regulations. Some gas IS really better that others.
 
#11 ·
Been lucky here too, but I'm trying to be real attentive about the gas rotation /stabilization. I've also been shaking my tractors that sit before starting. Agitating the fuel and giving any ethanol that settles a chance to reintegrate.

This spring I had several rounds with the GT6000 carb because of a 3 week spell of sitting. At plow day, she kept trying to flood out (sorry again guys) and then after a basic cleaning, she was hunting all over.

Second cleaning was "very" thorough ( I cooked the carb breakfast the next morning) and it's better, but still not right IMHO.

It's all gas related, and I'm mad about it... No reason to have these problems and all the irritation surrounding it, but it's what we've been dealt. Heck, I possibly got some E17.2 (bad mix) at the local place and then let it set for weeks. Who knows?

I do plan on getting some e free gas soon If i plan on having an opinion on this, i want to actually try it. Need to convince my wife why I want it and why it's worth the hour round trip to buy it.
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
ahhh, I feel fortunate to have a few stations that have e free within 15 miles. Mostly the premium but there is one about 5 miles from home that only has regular fuel and it is ethenol free.. Some friends have been using e-10 in their lawnmowers and chain saws and other equipment. They said, we usually just fill the cans at X station. I told them to go one more mile and get it at Y station. They have the chain saw in the shop at least once per year and have bought 2 or 3 new riding mowers in the 6 years that I have known them because they get to running so bad. I tell them over and over that unless their equipment has fuel injection, don't put ehenol in it....ever. The Grandpa in the family lives nearby and is a farmer and tells them the same thing. They still stop at X station because they drive by there and it's cheaper. I know they drive by the other place at least twice per week and point that out. Some people just don't care I guess.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
The only thing that really comes to mind is maybe the states you guys live in have a different formulation of gas than we have in NY. Honestly of all my friends I have never heard any of them have fuel related issues. The station that I get my fuel has a sticker on the pump that says may contain up to 10% ethanol. It appears to me from all I've heard and read it seems to worse in the midwest. Just an assumption on my part. The closest station that sells E-Free fuel is 25 miles away. Maybe as an experiment I will go get 5 gal and see if there is any difference in the way my engines run.
 
#14 ·
I have let my gt's sit for months between usage and have never had a problem with e-fuels. I have even run e-85 in a stock puller and did not have any problems. I have to disagree with the article above besides that, what was the maintenance on those machines, had they been operated in an intelligent manner and so on. I would rather have e-fuels than more big oil from across the pond.
 
#15 ·
And as far as buying "a gallon at a time" for 2 stroke mixing... I've said it before and I'll say it again, if you want true "high octane" from one of those multiple pumps, set the grade and pump a gallon or so into something other than your fuel container.

IF, the guy ahead of you used "regular", that hose is full from the grade selector valve in the pump right down to the nozzle with regular. AND if you do the math it's a significant amount of fuel into your container before the REAL high test gas reaches the nozzle...

How much fluid does 12' of regulation fueling hose contain? Somebody with math skills could probably figger it out, that let's me out!.:D
 
#17 · (Edited by Moderator)
I haven't had any issues with the ethanol fuel but, I can say that every two weeks I am in the area of a Reservation that sells non-ethanol fuel so I fill my truck up while I am there. I have a 2010 Silverado 4x4 with a 5.3L engine, I normally average 17.7 MPG with the ethanol fuel and the MPG goes up to average 18.4 with the non-ethanol.

Being an Indian Reservation, the gas is at least .20 per gallon less than any fuel in my area !!
 
#19 ·
It's nearly impossible to get anything but E10 here in Iowa and maybe I have learned to deal with it. We have had Ehanol in Iowa since the Gas Shortages of the early 70's(Rember only being able to buy 5 gal. at a time?) and it's all I use. I have not seen much difference, with one possible difference. Fuel Mileage in my car is less with Ethanol but not enough to justify paying more and driving all over to find Ethanol free fuel.

I live in a town of 18,000 with a gas station on every corner. I understand 1 has ethanol free fuel.
 
#20 ·
Up here some stations label the low and mid grades as up to 10% Ethonol. Others don't label but I don't know if that means 0 Ethanol. I'm not sure if it's a regulatory requirement to label or if it's just for information. I've been buying high test lately and I always treat it with stabilizer. Since I got a diesel tractor the gas powered stuff doesn't get used as much and the gas doesn't turn over quickly. The stabilizer seems to do it's job.
 
#21 ·
I've used 10% for years with Seafoam additive with little problems. But at the advice of my local mower shop & Kawasaki (Mule) dealer I've started using BP "Ultimate", high priced, but the only ethanol free gas available here. ~~ Lowell
 
#23 · (Edited by Moderator)
And as far as buying "a gallon at a time" for 2 stroke mixing... I've said it before and I'll say it again, if you want true "high octane" from one of those multiple pumps, set the grade and pump a gallon or so into something other than your fuel container.

IF, the guy ahead of you used "regular", that hose is full from the grade selector valve in the pump right down to the nozzle with regular. AND if you do the math it's a significant amount of fuel into your container before the REAL high test gas reaches the nozzle...

How much fluid does 12' of regulation fueling hose contain? Somebody with math skills could probably figger it out, that let's me out!. :D
Assuming a 1" Inner Diameter on the hose it's just under 1/2 gallon.

Here's the formula: R^2 X 3.1416 = Square inches. Mutliply sq. inches times length in inches to get cubic inches.

1 gallon = 231 cubic inches.

First, determine the area of the ID of the hose-- Radius^2 (Radius squared) X pi (3.1416) = Area... ..5 x .5 = .25; .25 x 3.1416 - .785 sq in.

Then multiply times length (in inches)-- .785 X 144 = 113.1 cubic inches. In this case, the area is in inches and

the length in feet (12 feet) so I converted to length to inches (144)

Divide by 231 to get gallons 113.1/231 = .49 gallons.

Smitty
 
#24 ·
Assuming a 1" Inner Diameter on the hose it's just under 1/2 gallon.

Here's the formula: R^2 X 3.1416 = Square inches. Mutliply sq. inches times length in inches to get cubic inches.

1 gallon = 231 cubic inches.

First, determine the area of the ID of the hose-- Radius^2 (Radius squared) X pi (3.1416) = Area... ..5 x .5 = .25; .25 x 3.1416 - .785 sq in.

Then multiply times length (in inches)-- .785 X 144 = 113.1 cubic inches. In this case, the area is in inches and

the length in feet (12 feet) so I converted to length to inches (144)

Divide by 231 to get gallons 113.1/231 = .49 gallons.

Smitty
RED LIGHT, RED LIGHT!!!! Oh my God... Ohhhhh myyyyyyy God, Smitty what have you done to me...? All those formulas, those numbers and conversions of ratios and rebarred 7th minor chords.... All I can see after reading your post is a woman called Alice "The Ax" McDougal who taught the filthiest of high school subjects "Math + Algebra" and me in her "favorite front row dummy seat" beating my bewildered head into the desk... So, you were one of them smart ass guys sitting there along with the ugly girls that could cypher that rythmatick eh? I wouldn't even know how to find that answer inside a calculator with the "ON" button already pressed for me...! Actually, the question was merely retorical...!:D

Now I'll have bad dreams all night of "Detention Hall" all for a lousy half gallon of regular gas left in the gas hose! :D

:dancingbanana: :smilewink: :D
 
#25 ·
Assuming a 1" Inner Diameter on the hose it's just under 1/2 gallon.

Here's the formula: R^2 X 3.1416 = Square inches. Mutliply sq. inches times length in inches to get cubic inches.

1 gallon = 231 cubic inches.

First, determine the area of the ID of the hose-- Radius^2 (Radius squared) X pi (3.1416) = Area... ..5 x .5 = .25; .25 x 3.1416 - .785 sq in.

Then multiply times length (in inches)-- .785 X 144 = 113.1 cubic inches. In this case, the area is in inches and

the length in feet (12 feet) so I converted to length to inches (144)

Divide by 231 to get gallons 113.1/231 = .49 gallons.

Smitty
I think I just had a brain spasm....
 
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#26 ·
I wish I could find ethanol free gas around here. Even the high octane is "up to 10%".

Honestly though the only issue I've had with it was in my tiller that I let set out side over winter with fuel in the bowl. Come spring the carb was junk! That was my "baughten" lesson and now I run all of mine regularly and run the whole fuel system dry. For my generator, since I want it to be stored with a full tank I put sta-bil in it, shut the valve and run the bowl dry.

My biggest argument against ethanol is that is costs more to produce and gets me less miles per gallon.