[IHCubGuy]

Well I connected it and turned the key and nothing. When I push in on the break is is clickety almost like notches - not smooth.

When I push the lighter button the starter spins and I get puffs of air from the exhaust. Any initial thoughts on nothing when I turn the key or what I should do?

This is going to be a really stupid question but..... Did you put a belt on the starter between this post and your last one? Just curious as I don't see it in the last post and the engine obviously will not turn without it on.

As for the starter not spinning when the key is turned and then spinning when the button is pushed. Someone has hacked up the wiring on it and I would guess made the key nothing more than a switch for the power to the coil. They then added a push button in the lighter hole and wired that to energize the solenoid. If it works and they did a clean installation there is nothing wrong with that as that is how the earlier cub cadets were built. Just a matter of if you want it to be original or not I guess.

 

[Manfjourde]

This is going to be a really stupid question but..... Did you put a belt on the starter between this post and your last one? Just curious as I don't see it in the last post and the engine obviously will not turn without it on.

As for the starter not spinning when the key is turned and then spinning when the button is pushed. Someone has hacked up the wiring on it and I would guess made the key nothing more than a switch for the power to the coil. They then added a push button in the lighter hole and wired that to energize the solenoid. If it works and they did a clean installation there is nothing wrong with that as that is how the earlier cub cadets were built. Just a matter of if you want it to be original or not I guess.

Lol - I did install the belt but after I took that pic.

I tried a combo of turning the key and pushing the button thinking it was what you said but nothing. How can I test the coil to see if it's putting out a spark? I can get the rotation at the flywheel but I am not sure if there is a spark. Sorry if these questions are noob and redundant but I am a noob at this.

 

[IHCubGuy]

So you have the engine cranking but no fire correct? If that is the case it is either a no spark or no fuel issue. Quickest way to test the coil is to turn the key on and put a test light on the coil at the wire coming from the switch. If it lights the coil has power. Then pull the plug and lay it on the head so it can ground and crank it over again. If it has a GOOD BLUE spark then the coil and thepoints are good and the problem is likely the carb. If not you have a bad coil or points that need replaced, filed or adjusted or a bad wire between the coil and the points.

 

[Manfjourde]

Okay I tried the plug and had no spark. I used a test light and the coil and didn't get anything either. What would be my next thing to check?

I'm worried that the wiring is so not stock I'm not sure where to start to figure how to get a hot plug from the key and turn the starter too. Any suggestions on where to start making sure the key ignition it wired to the starter and coil? I'd love to get this running as it was so cheap but if it's gonna be a ton of work I may just sell it and move on. Thoughts?

Also when I put my thumb over the spark plug hole and cranked it there wasn't a ton of pressure on my thumb. Should there be?

 

[IHCubGuy]

Okay I tried the plug and had no spark. I used a test light and the coil and didn't get anything either. What would be my next thing to check?

I'm worried that the wiring is so not stock I'm not sure where to start to figure how to get a hot plug from the key and turn the starter too. Any suggestions on where to start making sure the key ignition it wired to the starter and coil? I'd love to get this running as it was so cheap but if it's gonna be a ton of work I may just sell it and move on. Thoughts?

Also when I put my thumb over the spark plug hole and cranked it there wasn't a ton of pressure on my thumb. Should there be?

Which side of the coil had no juice to it? If it was the side coming from the switch then the current is not making it from the battery. You did say that when you push the button on the dash the engine cranks over correct?

 

[Manfjourde]

Which side of the coil had no juice to it? If it was the side coming from the switch then the current is not making it from the battery. You did say that when you push the button on the dash the engine cranks over correct?

I tried both sides of the coil and nothing. When I push the button the engine cranks. I've tried multiple combos of pushing the button and turning the key and nothing different. Just engine cranking, no spark.

 

[IHCubGuy]

I tried both sides of the coil and nothing. When I push the button the engine cranks. I've tried multiple combos of pushing the button and turning the key and nothing different. Just engine cranking, no spark.

Well with the key on and a test light on the coil wire from the switch with no light you got no juice. So at this point you have a bad switch or a broken or bad wire from the switch to the coil. What I would do to see if you can get any fire is to run a jumper wire from the battery to the switch side of the coil and then see if you get spark. You should at that point if the feed to the coil is the only problem. If that works and you get it to fire and there is no other foreseeable problems then at that point I would figure out if the switch is bad or not and get a new one if it is and also get a new wiring harness as well.

 

[Manfjourde]

I think I have sad news, when I took the plug out today and looked into the cylinder the piston didn't move at all when I powered the starter. Does it have any hope other than a rebuild?

I am thinking of selling it anyhow since I found a 1964 JD 110 that I've been wanting and got it so the Cub will definitely go to the back burner.

Also, how much would these wheel weights be worth? I was going to sell them anyhow but now that the engine needs more help than I expected I'd rather sell them.

 

[KennyP]

Not a good sign when the piston doesn't move! Nice weights!

 

[lrhredjb]

Turn the engine over by hand and see if the piston moves, if it doesn't you can get your money back and then some by parting it out. Sounds like you may have the green fever anyway.

 

[Manfjourde]

Well I ended up selling it and made $200 so not a bad deal and I would say I do have a bit of green fever lol. The 110 runs nice and being new at this that will help me a lot. Thanks for all the replies and help!

 

[Manfjourde]

I'm back in the 125 game!

I found another 125 for a good price and in much better condition. It runs great and came with a mower deck. I wasnt gonna get it but having the mow deck and being how nice it was I couldn't pass it up. It wasn't used much and was stored in a shed so minimal rust. I can see how these things just "follow you" home. Anyway I want to push snow with this one so am a little bummed I sold the other one as I could've used the wheel weights and even for parts but oh well.

The steering needs attention - should I just weld this back on or better to get a new piece? It also needs a grill and I'd love headlights (I really am kicking myself for selling the other one for the lights and weights).

Since this one is running do you recommend any maintenance off the bat? Change motor and transmission fluids?

 

[IHCubGuy]

Well that plate is NLA so you several options.

1. Ditch those parts and get good used ones.

2. Cut the weld on that bolt head and then get yourself a new grade 5 bolt with the same un-threaded shank length and weld it in in place of that one. Then cut the threads off to make them the same length as the factory one.

Either way get rid of that bolt that was being used as a cam follower stud and replace it with the correct tapered one. It is still available but REALLY pricey.

3. Replace the whole steering column with a different one. There's one on epay right now listed for a 106 with a decent price. It would be the exact same one you need.

As for maintenance, pull the rear cover off the transmission and drain the fluid out of it and get the front end up on blocks or something and rinse the case out to remove all the junk in the bottom. Get a new OEM hydrostatic filter (MTD# 923-3014) on it, a new rear cover gasket and refill with CaseIH Hytran. The engine couldn't hurt to have a fresh oil change. Some good Sae 30 and it should be good. Maybe check the spark plug, air filter and pull the sediment bowl off the fuel tank and clean it out as well.

Good luck, it looks pretty good.

 

[Manfjourde]

From talking with the owner he replaced the cam follower with the bolt but it never lined up so he left it. Not sure what cause the need to replace it in the first place.

I think I'll pull the whole steering setup out and inspect everything and clean it up while I'm at it.

I'm leaning toward option number 2. Any special suggestions on cutting that weld? And just to make sure all I need it the number 5 bolt and a cam follower?

 

[IHCubGuy]

From talking with the owner he replaced the cam follower with the bolt but it never lined up so he left it. Not sure what cause the need to replace it in the first place.

I think I'll pull the whole steering setup out and inspect everything and clean it up while I'm at it.

I'm leaning toward option number 2. Any special suggestions on cutting that weld? And just to make sure all I need it the number 5 bolt and a cam follower?

A good cut off wheel followed by a grinding wheel should take that bolt off of there. Just be cautious that you dont take material out of the plate as that could make the new bolt sit in there crooked. A grade 5 bolt the right size ( I believe that it is fine thread too) and the cam follower stud and its lock nut should be the only parts needed.

 

[dodge trucker]

Ive sen those cam followers on Feebay, price varies widely.

 

[Manfjourde]

Do any of you know the length of that grade 5 bolt or the section without threads? I don't have it and want to stop by the hardware store on the way home

 

[Manfjourde]

Do any of your know the correct rear cover gasket number or where to find it?

 

[KennyP]

Do any of your know the correct rear cover gasket number or where to find it?

It's in the manual here! Part # IH-350837-R2

 

[Manfjourde]

It's in the manual here! Part # IH-350837-R2

Thanks I had the other 125 manuals but couldn't find the parts one